There was only seconds between the two shots (K10 timestamp is out) , but I take your point. Anyway here is another attempt.

[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa184/stevejcoe/Equipment/CMOS%20vesus%20CCD/_IGP2558a.jpg[/IMG]

ACR imported with a colour temp of 5500 and tint of +9


[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa184/stevejcoe/Equipment/CMOS%20vesus%20CCD/_IGP9329a.jpg[/IMG]

ACR imported with a colour temp of 5050 and a tint of -3

Regards - Steve

For those asking for a side by side comparison. A couple of shots taken this morning from my back garden, using FA 31Ltd @ F8 on K5 and K10.

A little sunshine between the clouds, ISO was set at 100. Colour balance was set at AWB. Metering by Pattern.

The images were imported into CS6 by ACR, no adjustments were made. Colour balance left as shot.

Images were resized to 900 pixels wide in CS6 (resampled, bicubic sharper) and saved at highest quality JPGs.

[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa184/stevejcoe/Equipment/CMOS%20vesus%20CCD/IMGP2541a.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa184/stevejcoe/Equipment/CMOS%20vesus%20CCD/_IGP9329a.jpg[/IMG]


Link to full size JPGs

http://s198.photobucket.com/user/stevejcoe/library/Equipment/CMOS%20vesus%20CCD

Regards - Steve

My old Minolta scanner in combination with VueScan software has the option to save scans as tiff and RAW tiff. The latter option open with ACR

Regards Steve

I cannot find anything on the usual Pentax/Ricoh sites, but it does look like a genuine update. I downloaded to check out the included readme file, which is in English. There is no mention of the reason for the update, just the usual method of how to install.

Regards - Steve

Alan Marlow

http://www.cam-rep.co.uk/

Regards - Steve

Typed on the move basically I meant to say move the focus ring manually between taking AF shots.

Regards Steve

Is it not possible to manually enter the missing EXIF? If so does the included LR5 profile work?

Adobe do provide software that allows creation of profiles, but it is quite time consuming with zoom lenses.

Regards Steve

I am away from home at the moment, so I only have phone to hand, but basically.

Use a tripod
Delayed shutter release, us remote.
Use the lens wide open.
Take a least 5 shots manually turning the focusing ring to different positions between shots.
For a zoom lens repeat at different focal lengths. Some lenses FF at one end and BF at the other.

View the results on your PC screen. Decide whether the lens is front , or back focusing and a

djust accordingly. I usually make a large adjustment repeat the excercise several times progressively making fine adjustments until I am happy with the results.

Alternatively, if you have a macro slide rail there is an alternative method that if I remember Algernon has described.

Finally don't forget to take some real world pictures, before deciding on your final setting.

Regard Steve

I found the K10 to be very inconsistent under Tungsten lighting. Even after I had developed a tightly controlled and robust process the results were quite frankly all over the place.

From memory, in good natural light my zoom lenses nearly all back focussed, but the FA 50, FA 35 and F31 all front focussed. Since the zooms had smaller maximum apertures, I settled on a compromise setting for the three primes above, but that it what it was a compromise. The FA 50 only really came to life on the K5.

Regards - Steve

Make sure you carry out all tests in good natural light and remember that the adjustment will affect all of your lenses. Looking at your signature the 50mm F1.7 tested wide open is where you will notice the biggest difference.

Regards - Steve