All Forum Comments
Comment by JAK posted on K3 questions. at 17/01/2014 - 15:17
I purchased one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111244261631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1...
Seems well made but note price has gone up in the meantime. Took about a fortnight to arrive over the Christmas/New Year period.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111244261631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1...
Seems well made but note price has gone up in the meantime. Took about a fortnight to arrive over the Christmas/New Year period.
Comment by JAK posted on Wanted: Billingham Pouch for MX-1 at 16/01/2014 - 10:36
The blue cast on the original is fine and looks accurate. It is the sky being reflected on the damp road and roof - quite natural. Making them grey in the revised version has put the whole colour balance out.
Comment by JAK posted on A couple Fron The 10-20 at 15/01/2014 - 20:35
petermcdonald wrote:
Dear all, I am a proud owner of a Pentax KR. The problem is the slow write times which means that it seems to take an age before I can see the image on the rear screen. I am shooting RAW but am I using a setting which is slowing the processing down?
Many thanks for your ideas and help,
Pete
What SD card are you using? If you are using a class 4 it may well be slow writing to the card. Ideally use a class 10.Dear all, I am a proud owner of a Pentax KR. The problem is the slow write times which means that it seems to take an age before I can see the image on the rear screen. I am shooting RAW but am I using a setting which is slowing the processing down?
Many thanks for your ideas and help,
Pete
Comment by JAK posted on Slow write speed with Pentax kr? at 09/01/2014 - 21:29
autumnlight wrote:
It depends what lens its being used with. A slow lens will struggle due to the extra light loss rather than the filter, same as if you use a teleconveter on a slow lens. If your lens's maximum aperture is around f5.6 you're around the limit for AF to work with a polariser, be it a linear or a circular one.JAK wrote:
The trouble with linear is that i have to shoot in manual, AF just seems to struggleautumnlight wrote:
Hi i'm looking to buy a circular polariser as the one i'm using is linear (i think), what's confusing me is the difference in pricing from over a £100 to the one i'm looking at buying a Hoya for £14, is this because of the coating? i've seen a similar post on here but i wanted to know about the pricing and why there is such a difference in price.
thanks for any help
Linear polarisers are said to be fine with a Pentax DSLRs. (I use one I've had since the 1970's.) Some makes AF may get confused with them but not all so if you have one try it to make sure you wont be getting a new one unnecessarily.Hi i'm looking to buy a circular polariser as the one i'm using is linear (i think), what's confusing me is the difference in pricing from over a £100 to the one i'm looking at buying a Hoya for £14, is this because of the coating? i've seen a similar post on here but i wanted to know about the pricing and why there is such a difference in price.
thanks for any help
Try that filter you have with a faster lens and see how the AF copes then.
Comment by JAK posted on Circular Polariser at 06/01/2014 - 00:45
Maybe I did it without thinking but that's not what it says in the instruction information given (I saved the instructions at the time I downloaded it.)
Quote:
Updating Procedure
1. Provide a formatted SD memory card for the update software.
The download file is self-extracting. The following file is extracted.
•Fwdc220b.bin: This is the updated firmware.
Copy the above Firmware file [fwdc220b.bin] to the root directory in the SD card.
If your computer does not have a card slot, you can copy the firmware update file by inserting the SD card into your camera and then connecting the camera directly to your computer.
2. Insert the D-LI90 battery into the camera and confirm the battery is full by battery level indicator then turn the camera off.
3. Insert the update SD card (prepared in step 1) into the camera and close card cover.
4. Turn the camera power on while pressing the MENU button.
5. "Updates the camera firmware" appears in the LCD monitor.
Ver: 1.00 C1.01 will be displayed.
6. Press the four-way controller to select "Start" and press the "OK" button.
7. "NOW LOADING" appears on the LCD monitor and updating starts.
Please do not under any circumstances switch off the power before the update is completed.
8. When update is completed, the "COMPLETE" will be displayed at the left bottom of the LCD monitor, then turn the camera off.
9. Remove the update SD card from the camera.
*Confirm the version of firmware with above [How to check version].
Updating Procedure
1. Provide a formatted SD memory card for the update software.
The download file is self-extracting. The following file is extracted.
•Fwdc220b.bin: This is the updated firmware.
Copy the above Firmware file [fwdc220b.bin] to the root directory in the SD card.
If your computer does not have a card slot, you can copy the firmware update file by inserting the SD card into your camera and then connecting the camera directly to your computer.
2. Insert the D-LI90 battery into the camera and confirm the battery is full by battery level indicator then turn the camera off.
3. Insert the update SD card (prepared in step 1) into the camera and close card cover.
4. Turn the camera power on while pressing the MENU button.
5. "Updates the camera firmware" appears in the LCD monitor.
Ver: 1.00 C1.01 will be displayed.
6. Press the four-way controller to select "Start" and press the "OK" button.
7. "NOW LOADING" appears on the LCD monitor and updating starts.
Please do not under any circumstances switch off the power before the update is completed.
8. When update is completed, the "COMPLETE" will be displayed at the left bottom of the LCD monitor, then turn the camera off.
9. Remove the update SD card from the camera.
*Confirm the version of firmware with above [How to check version].
Comment by JAK posted on Firmware updates! at 06/01/2014 - 00:30
McGregNi wrote:
It may be the poor monitor I'm using here at the moment, but I'm seeing some banding in the sky, and some blue interference? If it is there then a bit of NR should clear it out
Looks OK to me too. Better get an AA filter for your monitor!It may be the poor monitor I'm using here at the moment, but I'm seeing some banding in the sky, and some blue interference? If it is there then a bit of NR should clear it out
Well seen image and an unusual cross flow of the tide.
Comment by JAK posted on Leading to the light at 06/01/2014 - 00:23
Smeggypants wrote:
The pixel size of a 16MP FF sensor is bigger than that off a 16MP APS-C sensor so the resolution of the FF will be less, but give you a wider field of view
Surely they'd be equivalent as a 16MP image will be comprised of the same number of pixels; eg 4928 x 3262 in the case of a K-5. The field of view of APS-C v FF is nothing to do with sensor resolution.The pixel size of a 16MP FF sensor is bigger than that off a 16MP APS-C sensor so the resolution of the FF will be less, but give you a wider field of view
Comment by JAK posted on DPR Best DSLR of the year vote at 06/01/2014 - 00:12
The point about waiting for the warranty period to end is well made.
There might be a good market for skins for older Pentax film cameras as they can deteriorate and come adrift. I've seen some cameras at boot sales where the covering seems to have come off.
There might be a good market for skins for older Pentax film cameras as they can deteriorate and come adrift. I've seen some cameras at boot sales where the covering seems to have come off.
Comment by JAK posted on Leather skins for MX-1 at 05/01/2014 - 23:55
They'd make some good spot the ball quizzes like they used to run in the newspapers. (Presuming the ball was cloned out first!)
Comment by JAK posted on Floodlit Footie MKII at 05/01/2014 - 23:40
So the little preview button (on the OFF/ON dial) is it just to save the hassle of deleting a photo if it wasn't how you'd like it to be?