Good choice!

They're all-mechanical cameras so at least there are no electronic gubbins to go wrong (except the meter of course - see below). Like a mechanical watch the chances are it'll either work or it won't!

Things to test are:

Check the shutter fires at all speeds. It's pretty much impossible to tell the difference between, say, 1/500 seconds and 1/1000 seconds by ear but you should be able to tell the differences between the slower speeds. If it doesn't fire (or always stays at the same speed) then walk away.

The meter battery is prone to drain. This is because of two contacts in the base that get bent towards each other and prevent the meter from switching off - an easy DIY fix so don't let that put you off.

Open up the back and hold the camera up to a bright light source - the MX has a rubberised silk shutter (much nicer and quieter than the usual metal ones) but the downside is that it can have pinholes in it. If it does then, again, walk away.

The light seals around the back door and the mirror box will almost certainly be corroded (the foam turns into a nasty black gunk which can get on everything). Once again this is an easy DIY job to replace so don't let it put you off.

Everything else is down to cosmetics really. Things like focus screens are still readily available on eBay but if you start off with a nice clean one then you'll save a few pounds not having to replace it.

Finally, edumad had problems with the prism itself having a hairline crack on his two - I've not experienced this but I can see how it would happen as the prism is right underneath the thin metal top plate - so check the plate for any dents or signs of being dropped.

Finally, check the self-timer works. If it's jammed up it can be fixed but it's not an easy job so walk away from that too.

That should do for starters and have a read of my MX thread.

Ignoring the current DA*300/4 (which has no aperture ring) there have been the following Pentax-made long primes with AF:

FA*300/2.8
F*300/4.5
FA*300/4.5
FA*400/5.6
F*600/4
FA*600/4

As far as I know you can still buy the FA*600/4 new on special order. Costs about the same as a family car but...

I'm with you on that one Terry. I only ever take the card from the camera if I fill it during the day's shoot and have to swap it for another, otherwise it never comes out of its slot.

I did wonder if we might see some football shirts from our Dutch friends...

A thread for discussing this week's competition.

My Sonnar takes 49mm filters so I won't be swapping...

1.1 metres (either end)

Hi Neil, that's quite normal as the viewfinder only shows you 96% of what the sensor sees (that's for the K200D - it varies slightly from model to model but they're all similar), in other words you'll always capture slightly more than you see when you shoot.

If you want the train to fill the frame you can either (a) wait until it's slightly larger in the viewfinder (a bit hit-and-miss) or (b) crop the photo in post processing.

Hope that helps!

Getting a quick caffeine fix...

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/competition%20stuff/IMGP7856.jpg[/IMG]

K10D | FA43 | f/8 | 1.5sec | ISO400

Taken about 30 minutes ago

I concur - I handled a K-m when last in SRS and was very impressed with the camera, but I'd also prefer a "proper" kit lens (metal mount, quick-shift and hood) to the "lightweight" version. Ideally I think the K-m would make a great pairing with the DA35 Macro Limited, but then I tend to prefer primes...

As for batteries I doubt you'd go far wrong with a set (or two) of Sanyo Eneloops.