220 is just a longer roll of 120 (so you can squeeze more shots on). It's important to have the right back for the reel as they'll have take-up spools of differing widths and different gearings to accomodate a particular length - put the wrong one in and you'll end up with either overlapping frames or ones so widely spaced you'll lose shots.

Try and stick with 120 as it's much easier to get hold of.

If the weather's OK then I'm going to put my new suspension set-up to the test. It's taken me a couple of weeks to get it all settled in and I reckon the car should now stick to the road like a limpet.

If I happen to end up somewhere picturesque then I may even rattle a few shots off too...

Really nice images Ben, even if the watches themselves are a little too bling for my tastes...

Wouldn't mind a Chopard Mille Miglia though if anyone has one going dirt cheap?

I recently bought one at Maplins so they're around if you look

Congratulations Clarky, enjoy your new photographic muse

I started with a blank sheet when I bought my K10D.

I'm a Rolleiphile, and if Rollei had made a DSLR I almost certainly wouldn't be here on this forum today. But they didn't.

I had a Praktica B-mount SLR with some sweet Zeiss lenses. But no DSLR would use them either.

I also had a Leica M6 with some nice Leica glass. But discovered with it that I didn't really get on with rangefinders.

Result? I sold the Leica and the Praktica and used the money to buy into Pentax. I spent around a year previously looking at photos on t'internet from all the various DSLRs on the market at the time and came to the conclusion that Pentax offered the best image quality. Nothing else entered the decision process (although the competitive pricing was a nice bonus) and if I could go back in time I'd do the same all over again.

I don't need fast AF (don't need *any* AF actually) or a machine-gun FPS or 50,000mm lenses to photograph people in the next town. I just want the very best IQ that money can buy at regular focal lengths and preferably with nice ergonomics and quality build. Pentax (and specifically the Limited lenses) gives me all that so I'm a happy bunny. If I won the lottery I'd probably buy a Leica M9 but I doubt I'd get on with it any better than I did the M6 and the Pentax would still get the bulk of the work.

Mind you, if I won the Euromillions rollover jackpot I might just buy the old Franke & Heidecke works and put that Rollei DSLR into production myself...

The software that ships with the camera may not be the greatest ever but it gives perfectly acceptable results and it's free! I use it and I get on with it just fine

I concur with Ken. I've never taken photos at a boxing match but I've been to a couple and what he says is very true.

You're probably right, I've got so used to doing my own I've lost touch with prices. The whole "manual-primes-cost-less-than-AF-zooms" thing should still hold true though so I'd imagine the lens in question should be at the lower end of the scale.

As for value, it's tricky to say as they hardly ever come up. Manual 28mm lenses in general don't tend to fetch huge sums (usually £30-ish) but this one is quite a bit faster than the usual f/2.8 designs which would count in its favour. Of course the fact it's not a Pentax (regardless of whether or not that's a good thing IQ wise) counters that slightly and pulls the price down again.

I think on a good day (list it so it finishes just after the first of the month when most folk have a little more disposable income) you could probably get £70+ for it, maybe even £100 if all the stars are in alignment, but I reckon that would be the ceiling.

So if you're getting it repaired with a view to selling it on then the chances are it won't be worth it, however, if you're fixing it to actually use then it'll probably cost less to repair than to replace and would be worthwhile.

A 28/1.8 actually makes very good sense as a fast normal on digital so worth getting a quote and having a good think about it.

It'll depend on the lens - they vary hugely in complexity and the ease at which the inner gubbins can be reached. As a rule of thumb most zooms will take 2-3 times as long to disassemble / reassemble as primes do, and older (MF) primes are much simpler beasts than newer (AF) versions.

To put it another way; something like an M50/1.7 would probably be in the region of £20, whereas something like the DA*16-50 would almost certainly stretch well into three figures.

Give Asahi or Harrow Technical a call - I'm sure they'll have seen whatever you've got before and would be only too happy to give a quote.