Obviously much more to read here later, but I think you'll find the HDR option in camera is more of an 'input' control. The camera (at least the K7) takes multiple shots to combine rather than processing a single RAW file - which I know is possible for producing HDR with the K5.

I would say the AA simulation of the K3 & SR settings are also 'input' settings, and I suspect there are probably a few others that in some way effect the way the RAW file is created and not just the (imbedded or otherwise) JPEG conversion.

I've used several wide angle adapters. Th quality does vary somewhat, with the cheaper ones tending to vignette on wide angle lenses. But results are reasonable given the price.

If I had a pound for every Pentax full frame rumour I might be able to afford said cameras when it's finally released, as it is, there's not a chance!

Many CCTV lenses are CS rather than C mount. Exactly the same thread but a further reduced rear focusing distance. Normal C mount must be ~17.5 mm in front of the sensor for infinty focus, CS reduces this by 5mm.
Coverage varies considerably but I don't think any are designed to cover more than a 16mm diagonal, many only cover 8mm.
Neither will be able to focus anywhere near infinity on a DSLR (of any type) but can potentially be used for macro where the increased lens-sensor distance will improve coverage as well.

Results from c-mounts are also very variable, the cheapest usable ones are rather quirky in the swirling bokeh they produce, which can make them usable for 'creative' work.

Pentax CCTV lenses will be amoung the more expensive models.

It avoids getting traces of the metal dust on your sensor etc. so I think I'd give the grinding satisfaction a miss & just beat the hell out of the pin when it's well clear of the lens.

Luckily neither of my Ricoh lenses have the dreaded pin, but I've heard similar solutions to Barrie.
I think I remember hearing that activating the cameras autofocus motor can help with getting the feeler gauge in. Probably best to try without first.
Good luck!

Stan, one other option I forgot earlier is a focal reducing adapter, which may still require an indirect approach. When I got mine no-one made a µ4/3 to PK focal reducer, but I could get a µ4/3 to EOS version for under £100 an add a EOS/PK adapter to that.
The combination allows legacy Pentax lenses to give about the same view on micro4/3 that they do on APSC (2x crop factor*0.7x focal reducer = ~1.5x crop). Like all focal reducers it also effectively makes the lens faster & usually improves the IQ marginally. Unfortunately it doesn't get on well with the lenses designed for crop sensors though theoretically it should still give APSC type views.

Stan, There are indeed a whole range of adapters, with a range of features. Do make sure you get a micro 4/3 one though (4/3 is an older mount with different rear focal distance, the G6 is micro4/3).
Special features available inclued aperture control for DA type lenses, tilt control (alowing focal plane adjustment) and I think a shift version is now also available though I've not got one myself - it's a lot more expensive than the cheaper tilt models.
For M42 lenses there is also a model with a built in macro helicod - drastically increasing the focusing range - such a shame thats not been done as a PK.

Whilst practicing my panning I've shoot nearly every car at race meetings on a one at a time basis and clocked up over 2000 in a day - gave me plenty of practice, but generally not much good for results!
Some of the machine gunners must get at least tens of thousands. If by luck they did manage a good shot the chances are they wouldn't see it for all the dross.

IMO No4 works best for the background, but looses out in the colours of the millennium bridge where No1 is best.
Taking everything together No2 gives the best compromise between the two!