Mecrox: this page may be helpful on the ArgyllCMS with Windows 7

Actually I found the Pantone Huey an excellent hardware colorimiter (sp?)... when used with ArgyllCMS and dispcalGUI in "cLUT" profile mode

I've mentioned this before (and this subject keeps coming up!)
Mentioned on this thread - https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/basic-colour-management--c1--amp--ps-2384...

I have the setup running on several PCs and a Mac. This was the ONLY software that was able to 'tame' my Toshiba M200 Tablet screen. One of my friends has the Huey and it wouldn't calibrate his Dell laptop screen - went all green. Quick blast with Argyll + dispcalGUI sorted it out.

... just uninstall the Pantone software first

HTH!
Matt

obsidian,
Just a hint: forget the Pantone software

Use ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI on the Mac and PC. Makes a much, much better job using the Pantone Spyder hardware
(And the software is free!)

I have written guides on how best to run the software (search on this forum).
The Spyder Pro is a good piece of hardware.

(Sorry to butt in to the thread!!)
Matt

Ditto

(sigh @ Shaky - you only had to Google)
I've used Fuji 1600ASA Superia colour negative film. Once.

At the time it gave the results I wanted, but I keep the scans as a reminder of how massive grain can be, and how far the dSLRs have come on
ISO6400 on the K20D looks amazing in comparison

Matt

Wow!
Glad it turned up!!!!
Matt

Hmmmm! The I-10 in white does look rather desirable

Just a shame about the lack of A/M modes

Matt

Very nice indeed

Duncan,
What I have found is this: if the non-flash meter reading is waaaay underexposed then the flash will likely be underexposed too.

Unfortunately, the metering usually doesn't help by choosing a low ISO when the flash is enabled

If you only set one thing - set the ISO to within two or three stops of ambient and the flash will generally be fine. In fact, with P-TTL flash you can just set the camera to fully manual: e.g. ISO1100, 1/30s, f/5.6 (ensuring it is still underexposed without the flash) and the P-TTL flash will do the rest

Have fun with the experimenting!
Matt

I regularly shoot at ISO2000+ up to ISO3200 on the K20D.
Even printed at 18"x12" from ISO3200 - even if I say so myself it looked superb

Generally I don't have a problem
(But what I do notice is that shooting higher than ISO800 your RAW converter is going to have a big, big, big effect on the results. Silkypix wins hands down for me.)

But, I'm happy to try it on a K7 if someone wants to lend me one (and I'll compare with a D700 if someone can do the same )

Matt