Don - you can use the AF360 in 'dumb' slave mode in "A" mode.
I've used this with a Canon S30 (ahem) in Av mode
...not sure if the I-10 has a mode where you'll know what the aperture and ISO is
Matt

Looks very inviting - I can feel the LBA kicking in again
(But a K7 is higher priority at the moment for me )
Nice to know there's a version with the "A" aperture ring!
Matt

The remote trigger also works with the flash in "M" and "A" modes as well

Don't forget they are optically triggered, not by radio.

I have tried some radio triggers from ebay. They did work - but only at slow shutter speeds. I know there are some forum members that have other radio triggers, and other infrared triggers as well.

And, as Pentax says, you can use the F series cables for off-camera-flash. That is Pentax's solution

Matt

Mine gets used (though generally by my son)

Actually, I really like its small size and image quality.
Ok, it's "only" 6Mp, but I have some of my best images from this beast. Writing to CF is quite slow, and RAW can be painfully slow after using the K20D. But it's definitely usable - it just slows you right down (which is probably a good thing!).

Plus points:
* Support for TTL as well as P-TTL flash guns
* Lovely big viewfinder and in-viewfinder indicators!
* PC socket for studio lights
* Three custom settings - I used these a lot (one for portraits, one for landscapes, one for macro, etc)
* Manual white balance 'grab' with a button- really, really useful with the Expodisc (still miss this feature!!!)

Negatives:
* Speed of use - especially compared to newer cameras
* Won't work with SDM-only lenses (like the DA17-70), alas.

Matt

I stand corrected

Just see the end of the video - the PC is definitely protected, but the jury is probably out on the hotshoe. It may have been that older Pentax DSLRs had protection on both (like the *ist-D) (But it's still true that the K20D hotshoe is behaving like a thyristor...)

Matt

Sounds like your £30 meter needs a visit to the recycling

I'd be surprised if the trigger voltage changed with flash power - after all, the reduced flash power is just partially discharging the capacitor. The cap is fully charged whatever the flash power is set to So your digital meter is correct.

I'm surprised at the comments about only the PC being protected... from tests earlier, it appears that both the hotshoe AND PC socket have thyristors on them. We were testing for 'lockups' when more than 2mA goes through the flash trigger (as in some studio lights) which lock the thyristors on (until power is removed).

Other comments (even from Pentax) say 300V (which is the smallest max voltage for a thyristor). I've seen other comments saying 30V... but to be honest, I have not actually heard of any Pentax being fried

I've heard of Canons being fried though They appear to have a transistor output on the flash circuit (which doesn't lock up with the studio lights, but will get fried with old flash guns).


I think Clarky has used high trigger voltages without any problems....

Matt

The only way to see it is to remove the context
(Zoom in all the way on the Mac will do it - Ctrl-mouse)

It's a great illusion

Difficult to answer the poll! (a) I know they are the same shade, but (b) they definitely don't look it

Matt

(Moderator comment: moved )

I learned focussing with manual lenses and manual cameras Didn't have a problem then, and don't have one now!

BUT, I set my dSLR like this (as I've often said before):
* Disable AF on half-press (this is essential IMHO)
* Centre focus point only
* To focus, I press the "AF" button on the back

This setup gives me the benefits of manual focus (i.e. I'm not hampered by hunting AF - which all cameras do - but possibly in different circumstances), with the advantages of AF (because my eyes aren't what they were!).

This approach gives me the ability to focus in almost pitch black gig & concert conditions - because I can point the camera at something that definitely has contrast, hit the AF button to focus, then fire away knowing the focus won't have changed that much.

Works like 'catch focus' as well - you AF on the spot you expect the subject to get to, then hit the shutter when they get there. There's no delay on the shutter because the camera isn't AF-hunting

That's all I've got to say on the subject
Matt

When I want incident light readings on the dSLR I use the Expodisc
Works very nicely as a white balance tool as well.
Matt