Sorted.

Thank you for the PMs 😎

Or at a pinch… a K20D or K10D 😁

My son is on the lookout for a good condition K-5 (preferably) or K-7 to extend his ME-Super and K-mount collection. 😎
Please PM if you have one to sell. (So gutted that missed the one here from last week)

Matt

PM sent

Apologies for humungous delay... (I'm rarely around here now, I'm afraid).

(Excuse the poor iPhone image quality - was in a hurry )

So, just dug out the old 80-320, and the brass parts are shims that sit between the outer barrel and the inner one. There are four holes in the inner barrel - you'll see that two shims sit on each side, and there's only one way the holes line up with the 'v' shapes: http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/IMG_2187.jpg

When reassembling, the screws go right through from the outer barrel to the inner one - clamping the brass shims. You'll see that the square with the tiny hole is accessible as you assemble. Use a fine pair of tweezer, or some stiff wire to hold the shims in place so you can get everything to line up. It's a fiddle, but not too bad. http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/IMG_2189.jpg
You should see the sandwich in this image. Make sure the shims sit nicely into the screws - keeping clearance from the inner barrel.

NOTE: PBase gallery long gone. Please see here for the gallery: http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/pentax_fa80_320/index.html

Hope that helps!

The Hoya R72 should let light through from 750nm - and may let a small amount of visible red through. See: https://hoyafilter.com/product/r72_infrared/

You can use IR filters on many digital cameras. However, some have aggressive IR cut filters that will block what's coming through an IR filter. The K7 worked fine with a 720nm IR filter for me, but the K5 + K3 get zero as they have IR-cut filters over the sensor.

Even when the sensor can accept IR, there is still a measure of IR-cut so the exposures tend to be tens-of-seconds (or minutes). Added to that - you can't see anything through the viewfinder, and the focus tends to be slightly off compared to visible light. So, it's fun to experiment, but can be difficult to get good results.

Here's one I did ages ago (tinted in PS) : https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/user-77/-infra-dead--25354

If you are serious about IR photography you can get the IR-cut filter removed from the sensor; and the focus adjustments made - that then enables more regular exposures and the ability to see what you're shooting! (And doesn't require a front filter). You can even get cameras modified to be sensitive to UV in addition (very interesting if you're into the insect-eye-view of flowers!).

Hope that helps.
Matt

I've also included Lightroom colour profiles generated with a QPcard & software. I've found these to consistently give the most natural colour rendition. (See my post here )

But comments above re WB & highlights/shadows are also very valid. Especially as these can throw off what you might think of as a 'proper' exposure - especially in the highlights of the sun.

Matt

I suspect it's a manufacturer's shoe last (rather than repairer) and "PN" is "Pattern Number" (i.e. the model of the boot). Difficult to tell the scale, but a ladies' boot?

Not that I've seen that style before, but I reckon the two swing out bits are for left + right shoe/boot, with the chained block clipping into the side of the last to provide a 'stop' for forming the leather. Just a hunch.
It also looks like both 'arms' swing upwards and stay in place for the collar/shaft of boot.

(Grew up with shoe repairing & manufacturing machinery around me as my Dad repaired that kind of gear!)

Matt

Hi all,
I thought I'd post a ZIP file containing QPcard-generated Lightroom colour profiles for:

• *ist-D
• K10D
• Samsung GX20
• K5
• K5ii
• K5iis
• K3
• MX1
• Q

PentaxLightroomProfiles.zip

I've found that these profiles (for RAW) produce much more realistic grass colours, better reds, and truer lilac/purple colours. They've been my assign-on-import into Lightroom settings for years.

There's also the LCP (Lens Correction Profiles) for the MX1 in RAW and JPG mode.

The ZIP file contains the DCP + LCP files - you'll need to move them into the appropriate directories for Lightroom. Then, under camera calibration, choose the colour profile (not Adobe Standard!).

Be aware that some film-emulation packs etc will force the colour profile back to Adobe Standard (so you'll need to tweak that after assigning!).

Hope you find them useful!
Matt

And received in lovely condition.
Thank you Mac!