I'd definitely sell the 18-250 (it's a good lens but once you have the 18-135 I doubt it would be used terribly much). I'd consider selling the 17-70 but only after checking that the 18-135 performs as well. I'd keep the 18-55 simply as a lens you may want to include at some time if you decide to upgrade the K-7 body.

I'd stick with m43 if I was you. The best bargains out there are probably the GH1 with 14-140 lens - often cheaper than just the lens by itself and capable of stunning HD video that should get wifely-approval if used for lots of baby moments!

I'd dump your current lens and get the Panasonic 20mm instead. And if funds allow, consider the mZuiko collapsable 9-18 lens which is a good performer and astonishingly small when stowed.

Well worth a look - some great images in Alan's gallery. Crisp, clear and nicely composed.

Quite often, the easiest way that works quickly and adequately is to go into the options to adjust hue/saturation. Make sure you are viewing the image pretty large (at least 50% possibly 100%).

Click on the drop down menu and choose magentas.

Click on the fringing in your image with the eye-dropper tool to choose the right colour.

Reduce the saturation (using the slider) and possibly also adjust the lightness slider.

This generally ought to do the job OK - and it's very quick.

There are more complicated things you can do which others might advise you on, or you could pay for the PT Lens plug in (works with PSE) from E Paper Press. This has a whole load of built in lens corrections and allows you to correct for chromatic aberrations too. It's pretty good and excellent value for money. You can set it up to correct distortions automatically for most readily available lenses - very handy!

Hope this helps,

Jon

If you got these at a reasonable price I wouldn't despair - extension tubes for Pentax that allow exposure control from the camera body are quite expensive and autofocus is of limited use at very close/macro distances in any case.

It's a difficult one. My preference for birding would probably be the prime lens (on the assumption that you are unlikely to do anything other than shoot as long as you can!), but I can't recall whether the 300mm is SDM only. If it is, the TC will not allow you to autofocus. In any case, I'd look for the highest quality TC possible to pair with that lens.

Otherwise, I'd get a lens that zooms to 500m for the same reason as mentioned above - if it gets to 500mm, the chances are that it will still be a strong performer until you get to around 450mm.....

As I'm the seller of the flash, I can confirm it's low voltage and suitable for use on digital cameras - it was initially bought for use on a Panasonic FZ20, and has been used on K-7 without managing to fry it!

If the price difference is that little, I would go for the K-7. I can understand why K20D owners did not upgrade, as the image quality really did not improve between the two. But leave IQ to one side, and there's an awful lot else which was, at least in my opinion, much nicer with the K-7.

PS - in order to avoid confusion, the flash is a Sunpak Auto 383 Super!

Actually, thinking about it I wonder whether your best solution would be to go wireless? It's possible to get wireless triggers for well under £20 and that might be preferable to cables?

Flash sold - thanks for looking. Jon