In nearly 20 months of (fairly) heavy use I've never "wet cleaned" anything inside or outside my camera. The Rocket Blower does a fantastic job as long as you use it regularly and there's less chance of damaging anything fragile as you never make contact with anything.

If you're anything like me you'll probably find it's the best ten quid you ever spend...

A good blast with a Rocket Blower can usually shift dust inside the VF - works for me anyway

That'll be me with my magic 43 - the silver ones do take better pictures lol

I'm 40% left and 60% right - and I can turn the dancer either way so I guess I'm pretty neutral...

Hello Sam and welcome to the forum

Hello GDN, welcome to the forum

Yes and no in that order (but only because I don't have a UV light, otherwise the answer would be yes and yes).

I use the Cokin P Wide Angle Holder (the one with just a single slot instead of the standard 3 slots) on this lens and it's invisible down to 13mm with barely perceptible edge shading at 12mm.

I personally don't use a UV filter, I just make sure the hood's always attached. Shouldn't be any problem if you do want to use one though

Oh well, you win some you lose some and I haven't lost all hope of it turning up just yet - think I'll wait a couple of weeks and see what the postman brings (or not as the case may be).

I don't know about the K20D, but I tried my M50 on a friend's Samsung GX20 (the same camera as the K20D to all intents and purposes) and found it metered in much the same way as my K10D does - in other words; less than perfectly I'm sorry to report.

As this problem could be "cured" on the K10D by replacing the focus screen, and the K20D uses the very same focus screen, I'm guessing the solution is the same.

I did read somewhere that the problem lay with the standard screen being optimised (by brightening coatings) for slower zoom lenses, so when a lens is attached and the camera doesn't know the maximum aperture it "guesses" it to be around f4-f5.6 and makes its calculations accordingly. This makes sense to me as my metering problems are worse with my faster lenses but the 200/4 normally gives a correct (or thereabouts) reading. I've been trying to find the link for all this info but unfortunately I'm coming up with blanks and I can only remember the basic outline - the full explanation was much more convincing!