I found that my K10D and GX-10 were both back focussing, and adjusted both using the 'Russian' software to get the camera into debug mode. Although the focus positions are not exactly the same for each lens, the results are close enough to be acceptable, and certainly better than the original settings.

(For info, the K10D is now set to -7 micro-m and the GX-10 to -9 micro-m.)

My 43 mm ltd. lens doesn't have a 'quick focus' ability (where you can quickly and easily manually fine-tune focus after AF has locked on, as is possible my other more modern Pentax lenses like the 12 - 24 mm), so getting the focus position right with this lens was a very worthwhile endeavour.

Um... English wife, Dutch girlfriend...

He he he, that's almost a classic!

I bought a 28 mm Tokina f 2.8 for £ 7.00 this week. Useless post and me boasting to boot!

Funnily enough, stopped down it's as sharp as the cats claws.

I bought my Dutch girlfriend some inflatable shoes, but when I arrived to take her out last evening she'd popped her clogs...

All three of my K10 batteries came without caps (two genuine, one OEM), but the Samsung one came with a cap...

It looks like Jessops will survive a little longer, now that they are owned by HSBC.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/6244565/Camera...

Edit: Oops - I note that yelvertoft got there first!

Think of the telescope (with SLR adaptor) as a large prime SLR lens, with manual focus and shutter operation (and no aperture control). You focus the system using the telescope focus adjuster, just the same as if you had an eyepiece in, and check for focus through the camera viewfinder.

Recommended: Turn off Shake Reduction, use a remote control and use a 2 sec. delay after mirror up (to avoid shake/vibration caused by the mirror actuation). Don't forget to set white balance.

My first telescope was a Tasco 2 1/2" refractor - good 'scope.

Having a drive would allow me to take bracketed exposures, which is essential IMHO for planets. If you take a single exposure then yes - I can see vague detail on Jupiter at 1,000 mm, F11, ISO 100 at 1/60th second, which doesn't need a drive, but then the moons are not visible any more.

The moon is great to photograph through the 'scope, but difficult in my experience to get *really* sharp (maybe that's my telescope as much as anything).

I'm lusting after a Celstron 4 m telescope with drive (with a 14 " objective lens) - only £6,500.00!

mmmm Denon.

(That sounds a bit like an advert...)

I've been trying to photograph Jupiter, which is currently at opposition. Sadly, the Celestron (at 1,000 mm) simply isn't big enough to get a decent image with a single exposure, and my telepscope doesn't have a drive, so I can't take multiple exposures, even at high ISO.

I believe your Tasco is 900 mm focal length, and has a drive, so you should be able to get some good pictures.

With the eyepiece in last night I could clearly make out three of the moons - the weekend before last I could see four. The Jovian atmosphere bands are quite visible even with this small telescope, but not quite enough to make out the great red spot.

Regarding item 2, this might help:
link
I don't know your particular telescope, but you can probably use a t-mount like the one I have shown on my Celestron.

Regarding item 1, I have the a Tamron 70-300 macro lens (possibly the same type as yours), and get great results from it (IMHO of course :lol. One practical downside I found is the fact the front element rotates and that's a nuisance when using a circular polarising filter.