Search results for 'back focus' - page 50
A retro afternoon
I had two rolls of Kodachrome sitting on my desk for six months and finally decided to use them today brfore the processing stops at the end of November. So I dug out my old kit and after problems with my Z1 camera I ventured forth kitted out with the following: MX + autowinder + K50mm 1.2 ME...
Posted by pschlute on 24/10/2010 - 23:02
MZ-M Faults
Help! I have just acquired an MZ-M body. I fed it with 2 new CR2 batteries, attached an FA lens & switched on for the first time. The display works fine and the alternate programmes appear in the LCD. My problem started when I pressed the shutter. The mirror has locked up and whatever...
Posted by Jabof33 on 04/11/2010 - 18:39
MZ-M Faults
Help! I have just acquired an MZ-M body. I fed it with 2 new CR2 batteries, attached an FA lens & switched on for the first time. The display works fine and the alternate programmes appear in the LCD. My problem started when I pressed the shutter. The mirror has locked up and whatever...
Posted by Roscoe on 04/11/2010 - 18:56
Which Spotmatic to go for?
I personally love my ES for no logical reason I can think of. The auto exposure is surprisingly accurate. It's main drawback is that there is no metering in manual mode so I tend to use the exposure compensation system as I do for my K20D rather than manual. It works best with S-M-C or SMC Takuma...
Posted by womble on 15/11/2010 - 21:13
Which Spotmatic to go for?
If you want a K mount Spotmatic then I'd go for a KM rather than K1000. The KM has a self timer which is very handy for long exposures as you don't need to remember a cable release - you can just park it on a suitable rock or wall, wind the timer, and set it off while standing guard "hands off" over...
Posted by Dangermouse on 15/11/2010 - 21:32
Which Spotmatic to go for?
Spot F IMHO, just sold mine as its not getting the use it should because I have an ESII and I just like the ESII better, the Auto mode if very handy for longer exposure stuff at night (when you can't read the meter). I have some some long exposure stuff on the film in there (5-10min exposures) so I ...
Posted by Backhouse on 16/11/2010 - 11:43
Which Spotmatic to go for?
That's incredible! The ES II seems so rare that I'm seriously considering emailing one of the camera repair places to ask if they've got spares and can restore mine. It needs a CLA, new battery door, new rewind crank, and a sheared self timer bolt removing and replacing. Normally I'd regard i...
Posted by Dangermouse on 20/11/2010 - 00:31
Which Spotmatic to go for?
I've just fished my ES II out of the wardrobe and you know what? It isn't that bad... There's a bit of scuffing and paint loss and the self timer problem which I've no idea how to sort out (the bolt sheared when I tried to unscrew it so I have a snapped bolt stuck in the hole), as well as the mis...
Posted by Dangermouse on 20/11/2010 - 13:17
Which Spotmatic to go for?
To be fair, the Spotmatic's metering circuit isn't exactly sophisticated. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the official Pentax service manual said that the tolerance was half a stop either way, so it's probably safest to regard it as a guide rather than a firm instruction! Bear in mind that...
Posted by Dangermouse on 21/11/2010 - 11:53
Pentax clip-on light meter cases
If you're talking about the Hi-top ever ready case, that accomodates the camera with meter fitted, then I don't think there's any difference. Long ago, I bought an SV from Jessops classic, in Pied Bull yard, opposite the British Museum. It had the earlier round meter and Hi-top case. A couple of da...
Posted by mowog on 18/11/2010 - 17:46
800 ISO Film. Give interesting results in Urban eve/night?
I only shot a few rolls of that film way back... Mostly used Kodak 800. I shot the kodak at iso 640 for best results. you should have no trouble handholding this combination. Just meter carefully all the darkness and then the bright lights will throw off your camera meter.... I used to use my...
Posted by Don on 19/11/2010 - 20:37
KM/KX/K2 (n)ever ready case material?
I've just found a couple of ebay listings for these, and while I know the front part is a royal pain I do find the back part excellent for protecting the camera from scrapes. Only thing is I don't know whether the cases are real leather or the cardboard-based stuff used on the M series? If the forme...
Posted by Dangermouse on 01/12/2010 - 23:07
KM/KX/K2 (n)ever ready case material?
... If the former I can safely buy a scruffy one and give it a good polish, the cardboard type seem impossible to restore fully as the fake leather outer tends to crack and flake off... . Matt, I'm sorry, but the picture looks to me rather as if it is one of the vinyl-coated cardboard types. In an...
Posted by Banjo on 02/12/2010 - 00:25
KM/KX/K2 (n)ever ready case material?
The KM did come in a Spotmatic case, as this had a sticker inside for a firm which had ceased to exist before the KM was released (Wallace Heaton) and a Super Takumar 35mm lens attached I decided it probably held a Spotmatic originally and found a clean spotty to go in it. The KM fitted the back...
Posted by Dangermouse on 02/12/2010 - 10:11
negatives to computer
The cheapest way is to use a developing/printing organisation that, for a couple of quid extra, scans your negs at the same time, and gives you the scanned files back on a CD, along with the prints and negs. Some of them give you the option of not printing any of them, just developing and scanning,...
Posted by ChrisA on 09/12/2010 - 09:33
negatives to computer
Is the film processed yet? and is it colour or B/W? I only ask because I was just inspired to run through a couple of films this week, and I am trying out the ilford lab on the web. I think they only process balck and white, but it can be any brand of film; and there are options to just get the negs...
Posted by matwhittington on 09/12/2010 - 18:05
negatives to computer
In my opinion scanned film images are nowhere near as good as high quality DSLR photos. Back in the days when DSLRs were ultra high priced, film scanners were a good way to digitise film camera images. Many Photographic Society members used them. I have a Canon FS4000 US Film Scanner which is ...
Posted by grahamwalton on 09/12/2010 - 19:11
negatives to computer
Don't hide your Z1 in a draw - give it air time - shoot Fuji Velvia or Provia - the results are truly worth it. Because it costs every time you press the shutter, it will help with basic techniques because you spend that extra little bit of time thinking about then checking composition, balance etc....
Posted by Pwynnej on 09/12/2010 - 20:32
negatives to computer
It's not all nostalgia, some of us ENJOY shooting film. Exactly I've got back into film since buying a DSLR, as I can now try all sorts of techniques on digital first to see if they work before using them on film. Film is an excuse to play with wonderfully made old cameras which require a lit...
Posted by Dangermouse on 09/12/2010 - 22:58
negatives to computer
Womble...you have it spot on..and if I were even twenty years younger I would be doing what you are doing. Film is fun and what I cut my teeth on, so to speak. I have the Z1. I was given some film Fujicolour 200 ASA. It was fun and that healthy clunk of the shutter was a reassuring sound. ...
Posted by thoramay on 10/12/2010 - 09:54
