I use the paper from photopaper direct - it's cheap enough, and personally I've never had a problem with it other than remembering which profile to use when printing B&W (to avoid a colour cast).

Phil

A lovely set, but Nos. 2 and 5 stand out for me.

Phil

Karlo

The key thing to aim for is the exposure time, and you use the aperture to get the exposure time that you are after. As you are moving the camera the depth of field is almost irrelevant, so aperture setting is just not important. I took some images at F22, but again because of the camera movement, diffraction is not a problem either. For what it's worth most of the more 'successful' images were taken in the F8-F11 range.

Re ND filters - I used the 10 stop as I have one, and it gives the exposure time. I also used a variable ND filter which is a very good tool for this type of work. Anything that you have to extend the exposure can be used. A CPL is also useful and gives about 2 stops.

I use a combination of Liveview and the viewfinder for framing, but my preference is for the viewfinder, but once I have the general framing and the exposure set, then I can just slip on the viewfinder cover and shoot away.

Hope this helps - just give it a try. You also need to be aware that you will get LOTS of duds, a much higher percentage than you would get with 'normal' photography. Also, looking at the screen on the camera is not a great guide either, you need to look at them on the PC.

Phil

Thanks for the kind comments. This sort of thing is definately a bit 'hit or miss', so you end up with lots of duds to get a few that please you. However, it's something that I'm going to keep trying as I like the painterly results that you get. So you will see some more!

Karlo - an ND filter is an absolute necessity. The minimum exposure is probably 0.5 sec or so, and then going up to about 5 secs., but this is only a very rough guide. The only thing to do is to give it a go and see what works for you. One general point to note, as you get to the longer exposures you need to make sure that you don't get light getting in through the viewfinder as you will then get (normally reddish) coloured stripes across the image. I've made myself an viewfinder cover out of an old piece of mousemat which seems to work to stop this.

Phil

A selection of ICMs mainly looking towards Bosham village from the Hoe. These are all from a recent workshop on ICM and multiple exposure that a group of us from Guildford took part in. All of this selection were taken with my smc A 50mm F1.7, with exposures ranging between 1/3 and 5 secs. Mainly with a Cokin Nuance 10 stop ND filter.

1 - Bosham Boats




2 - Bosham Village 1




3 - Bosham Village 2




4 - Pontoon 1




5 - Pontoon 2




6 - Shades of Bosham




I hope that you find them interesting.

Phil

This is a lovely capture. I agree with Nigel about the sky - it really adds to the image.

Phil

Great stuff - I love the foreground detail in the rocks.

Phil

Hello & welcome.

Phil

David

Thanks, that's what I'll do. I thought that there must be an easy way to do it, but I just couldn't find. Yet another example where this forum is so useful.

Phil

John

Many thanks, just what i was looking for. I wanted it for when I am taking landscapes that i intend to process as B&W and I'd find it helpful to be able to see a 'rough' B&W image in live view whilst checking composition, filters , etc.

Phil