Bosham ICMs - Image Heavy

A selection of ICMs mainly looking towards Bosham village from the Hoe. These are all from a recent workshop on ICM and multiple exposure that a group of us from Guildford took part in. All of this selection were taken with my smc A 50mm F1.7, with exposures ranging between 1/3 and 5 secs. Mainly with a Cokin Nuance 10 stop ND filter.

1 - Bosham Boats




2 - Bosham Village 1




3 - Bosham Village 2




4 - Pontoon 1




5 - Pontoon 2




6 - Shades of Bosham




I hope that you find them interesting.

Phil

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K-5iiS; K-r; ME Super; ME; DA* 16-50 f2.8; DA 18-135 WR; DA 55-300 WR; HD DA 15mm F4 ED AL Limited; FA 50mm f1.4; A50mm f1.7; DAL 18-55mm; M40mm f2.8; + assorted non-Pentax lenses

My Flikr Page link

No.2 is good but no.6 is just wonderful.
Print, frame & onto the wall with it!

Roger.

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The more I look, the more there is to see!

Definately interesting Phil! No6 has an amazing texture. Its all more painterly than photographic, but hey, we don't worry about that around here I think that technically you're handling things very well. Beautiful colours throughout.

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My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver

Very nice set... particularly like no.1... wishing you luck with your further experimenting...

Best

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Bill

BillWardPhotography
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Most interesting, thanks for posting these.

It's hard to pick a favourite as each image has a different feel, No. 6 does have a wonderful abstract quality.

Regards
Mike

1 & 4 do it for me. I like that they are not totally abstract.

Nice set...really different. Keep saying i'd give it a try.

What I didn't realise was the length of exposure...guessing that's where the 10 stop ND comes in?

Particularly like 1,4 and 6.

cheers

Karlo

A very interesting set. My favourites are the first three images. Thank you for sharing!

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Bjørn

PPG
Flickr

Thanks for the kind comments. This sort of thing is definately a bit 'hit or miss', so you end up with lots of duds to get a few that please you. However, it's something that I'm going to keep trying as I like the painterly results that you get. So you will see some more!

Karlo - an ND filter is an absolute necessity. The minimum exposure is probably 0.5 sec or so, and then going up to about 5 secs., but this is only a very rough guide. The only thing to do is to give it a go and see what works for you. One general point to note, as you get to the longer exposures you need to make sure that you don't get light getting in through the viewfinder as you will then get (normally reddish) coloured stripes across the image. I've made myself an viewfinder cover out of an old piece of mousemat which seems to work to stop this.

Phil

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K-5iiS; K-r; ME Super; ME; DA* 16-50 f2.8; DA 18-135 WR; DA 55-300 WR; HD DA 15mm F4 ED AL Limited; FA 50mm f1.4; A50mm f1.7; DAL 18-55mm; M40mm f2.8; + assorted non-Pentax lenses

My Flikr Page link

Thanks for that info Phil.

Re. the aperture...what did you find most successful?

ND filters...i've not got one...did you use a 10 stop because you already had it or can you use a ND4 for example?

With the viewfinder covered up...does that mean you used Liveview to frame?

I'm definitely going to give it a whirl...i've got a few locations in mind locally to try it out.

Regards

Karlo

Karlo

The key thing to aim for is the exposure time, and you use the aperture to get the exposure time that you are after. As you are moving the camera the depth of field is almost irrelevant, so aperture setting is just not important. I took some images at F22, but again because of the camera movement, diffraction is not a problem either. For what it's worth most of the more 'successful' images were taken in the F8-F11 range.

Re ND filters - I used the 10 stop as I have one, and it gives the exposure time. I also used a variable ND filter which is a very good tool for this type of work. Anything that you have to extend the exposure can be used. A CPL is also useful and gives about 2 stops.

I use a combination of Liveview and the viewfinder for framing, but my preference is for the viewfinder, but once I have the general framing and the exposure set, then I can just slip on the viewfinder cover and shoot away.

Hope this helps - just give it a try. You also need to be aware that you will get LOTS of duds, a much higher percentage than you would get with 'normal' photography. Also, looking at the screen on the camera is not a great guide either, you need to look at them on the PC.

Phil

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K-5iiS; K-r; ME Super; ME; DA* 16-50 f2.8; DA 18-135 WR; DA 55-300 WR; HD DA 15mm F4 ED AL Limited; FA 50mm f1.4; A50mm f1.7; DAL 18-55mm; M40mm f2.8; + assorted non-Pentax lenses

My Flikr Page link

interesting... Super stuff. different... Well done..

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K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses

Stuart..

Phil...thanks very much for taking the time.

I'm going to read a bit more about it and then have a go this month sometime. I'll post any that I like. (assuming there are any!)

Regards

Karlo