All Forum Comments
I had used one of these for a while with a MZ6. The results were not great and the zoom head was erratic and not adjusted correctly with some of my pentax lenses. If I recall correctly it is a TTL gun and therfore will only work in manual mode on the K10. Not sure of the trigger voltage.
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Sigma EF430st [pa] and k10d will it work?? at 20/12/2009 - 17:19
polchraine wrote:
A member may be bidding but keeping quiet and a post will spark additional interest and possible cost him more as either other member will bid or someone lurking from outside may see it and take advantage.
A member may find an interesting lens but by not posting it could end up with a non-member.
So, John, how about asking for a "closed forum" which can only be accessed by "long term" members (say 50 posts or more) where items such as this could be listed. At least then, WE, will benefit and outsiders will not be tipped off. It could, but members would never even contemplate it, be used to agree that only one should bid!
I personally believe that members should refrain from posting these type of links. johnriley wrote:
Well I could, but would that now be fair on everyone else? I've bid as well and I wouldn't remove the link so that I reduced the competition for myself....
These helpful notifications are a bit of a mixed blessing really, but in any event we can't expect to keep an eBay auction secret.
What's the consensus - is it a good idea for people to point out eBay bargains (and thus potentially destroy the bargain) or doesn't it matter because it's there for all to see anyway?
OK - I can see this from different perspectives.Well I could, but would that now be fair on everyone else? I've bid as well and I wouldn't remove the link so that I reduced the competition for myself....
These helpful notifications are a bit of a mixed blessing really, but in any event we can't expect to keep an eBay auction secret.
What's the consensus - is it a good idea for people to point out eBay bargains (and thus potentially destroy the bargain) or doesn't it matter because it's there for all to see anyway?
A member may be bidding but keeping quiet and a post will spark additional interest and possible cost him more as either other member will bid or someone lurking from outside may see it and take advantage.
A member may find an interesting lens but by not posting it could end up with a non-member.
So, John, how about asking for a "closed forum" which can only be accessed by "long term" members (say 50 posts or more) where items such as this could be listed. At least then, WE, will benefit and outsiders will not be tipped off. It could, but members would never even contemplate it, be used to agree that only one should bid!
Yes I agree that members, who do their home work will often find themselves bidding against each other. I have no problem with that.
What I do find frustrating, is that this type of post tips of the less diligent to a potential bargain, which often results in frenzied activity and an inflated selling price.
Comment by stevejcoe posted on 400-600 at 03/12/2009 - 20:19
When used on the K10 is the camera focusing the lens using SDM or screw drive?
Regards - Steve
Regards - Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Help! lens focussing problem... at 05/11/2009 - 19:20
womble wrote:
Sounds like a job for Robin at Harrow Technical....
Kris, this is a relatively easy strip down and reassemble job. The same thing happened to my SMC-A 50mm f1.4. No specialist lens tools required just a couple of good quality watchmakers screwdrivers.Sounds like a job for Robin at Harrow Technical....
If you feel inclined to give it a go, send me a pm and I will have a go at writing a disassemby/reassembly guide
Regards - Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on stiff lens at 04/11/2009 - 22:18
I have used both of these lenses and actually still have the F3.5/4.5.
The constant aperture F4 is possibly sharper, but as Hefty comments, once stopped down differences are marginal.
What you may find more significant regarding ease of use, is that the F4 is a two touch zoom (separate zoom and focusing ring) as opposed to the one tough F3.5/4.5.
The F3.5/4.5 is also a more compact lens. It takes 49mm filters and weighs around 240gms as opposed to the F4 , which takes 58mm filters and weighs around 330gms.
Regards -Steve
The constant aperture F4 is possibly sharper, but as Hefty comments, once stopped down differences are marginal.
What you may find more significant regarding ease of use, is that the F4 is a two touch zoom (separate zoom and focusing ring) as opposed to the one tough F3.5/4.5.
The F3.5/4.5 is also a more compact lens. It takes 49mm filters and weighs around 240gms as opposed to the F4 , which takes 58mm filters and weighs around 330gms.
Regards -Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Which 35-70mm zoom? at 29/10/2009 - 10:22
Jackie, as Preni thought you have turned on full screen mode.
If you look towards the bottom left hand corner of the interface you will see two boxes labelled 1 and 2 ( primary and secondary window).
Hover the mouse over the box and right click. you will see a number of options relating to view.
Regards - Steve
If you look towards the bottom left hand corner of the interface you will see two boxes labelled 1 and 2 ( primary and secondary window).
Hover the mouse over the box and right click. you will see a number of options relating to view.
Regards - Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Lightroom problem at 24/10/2009 - 18:56
I have three 4 Mb Sandisk Extreme lll, decided upon them after recommendations on this forum. I keep them in the supplied containers, always format in camera before I go out on a shoot and upload to a PC when I return.
Never had any problems
Regards - Steve
Never had any problems
Regards - Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Memory Cards at 23/10/2009 - 07:56
I used to have one of these, it dates back to the early 80's. The dediciation is simply shutter speed synchronisation, not TTL. I used it with a ME Super.
It was a pretty high specification flash at the time; 3 auto settings as well as manual, with push/pull zoom, tilt and swivel head and secondary fill in flash. If my memory serves me correct it gave pretty consistent results.
The 3 automatic settings should be useable as well as manual mode.
I read somewhere that the trigger voltage was around 5.9 volts, but please do not take my word for that.
As for price I sold mine a couple of years ago for approx £25
Regards - Steve
It was a pretty high specification flash at the time; 3 auto settings as well as manual, with push/pull zoom, tilt and swivel head and secondary fill in flash. If my memory serves me correct it gave pretty consistent results.
The 3 automatic settings should be useable as well as manual mode.
I read somewhere that the trigger voltage was around 5.9 volts, but please do not take my word for that.
As for price I sold mine a couple of years ago for approx £25
Regards - Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Hanimex PZ4200 at 16/10/2009 - 09:26
Frequently using either FA 35 FA 31Ltd or A28. I will be looking for a wider prime when funds allow.
Steve
Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on Dicipline. at 09/10/2009 - 07:33
Mannesty wrote:
The K10/20D and K-7 bodies are said to be weatherproof, not waterproof.
Weatherproof essentially means that they can withstand water falling onto them, as in rain.
When dunked in a bucket, the water at the seals is under pressure, albeit a very low pressure depending on how deep the bucket is, and the weatherproof seals might be compromised.
The deeper the camera goes into the water, the greater the pressure of water on the seals and the greater the risk of the water breaching the seals.
Also bear in mind that all seals will take a 'set' over time, so the cameras will become less weather resistant as the years roll by. The K10/20D and K-7 bodies are said to be weatherproof, not waterproof.
Weatherproof essentially means that they can withstand water falling onto them, as in rain.
When dunked in a bucket, the water at the seals is under pressure, albeit a very low pressure depending on how deep the bucket is, and the weatherproof seals might be compromised.
The deeper the camera goes into the water, the greater the pressure of water on the seals and the greater the risk of the water breaching the seals.
Steve
Comment by stevejcoe posted on How waterproof is a K10/20D? at 01/10/2009 - 22:08
