+1


Steve


ps - *istD comes up with message re needing Japanesse language module enabled

SmutjeUK - you will find it a lot easier if you get Martin Eveining's book. Amazon have it for a little over £18.00 - see the link below

link

All images which have been changed have little graphical markers on them in the bottom film strip view indicating what's been done in broad category terms, inc key words, croping, flags, stars etc. It really is worth the money.


Steve

My original end comment remains pertinent i.e.

If you are like Smeggy and do a lot of street shooting in low light with a preference for shallow dept of field to get the o/a effect sought, then may be the extra stop is crucial as DoF on wide lens increases significantly with each extra stop. However, for less specialist uses or normal landscape work, then f4 will be plenty.


Steve

Probably worth getting hold of a copy of Martin Evening's book on LR3.

The trick with LR is use the folders, keywords and flags etc to arrange your catalogue.

I've got my source files in various folders on several different hard drives i.e. my overseas holiday images is on my F drive in folders with location and year (i.e. Zimbabwe 96) and these are imported into LR and sit in a sub section of the LR catalogue relating to the F drive . My H drive's got my UK stuff in it by, organised by subject, location and date where appropriate with all images having key words like the camera body, lens etc. added.

As long as you use folder names which make them easily identifiable when reduced to the end string in the library's L/H panel, i.e. F: - NZ Mar 10 - 1403 Christchurch, this works. The example above isn't perfect, but it does at least allow me to find and differentiate it from it's related folder, 2712 Christchurch.

(Note: - used for back slash as site won't allow it as "text")


Steve

Talking of old children's hour programmes, does anyone remember The Whirlybirds? Reckon must have been on in about 1958-9 - vague memories of watching it in my high chair (may be recovered memories?).


Steve

As Lennybloke, DA16-50 as principle walkaround lens. Got the speed and width to meet most requirements.

DA14's a great lens - I don't give the use it deserves. Tend to favour the DA12-24 of my wider lens options if I'm travelling. Don't find the extra stop slower a problem because I'm happy to hand hold with SR enabled at 1/20 sec or 1/15 if braced. If you shift your minimum f stop size to 4, a lot more options become available.

Ultimately, depends on your expected use for the lens, the budget you have and which body you are using.

Pure anecdotally, ordinary Fuji Film is biased towards the green end of the spectrum and Kodak the red. If there is any mileage in that, then the Fuji film will be better for landscape subjects and Kodak for anything where skin tone is important.

However, Fuji offer a variety of different film emulsions - ie Pro 160S and 160C. Same speed and quality, but S version for warmer subjects (i.e. skin tones), C for landscapes where green is (generally) the dominant colour. These are more expensive that the basic range. I've not used Pro 400H but it's part of the 'better' quality offer.

Velvia is in a class of it's own - but it's slide film and a step up from ordinary colour print film.


Steve

It's under 'Accessories' in XP. Never knew it existed - not a programme area I visit often.

I've just checked the K7 manual - p201-2 - works with DA, DA-L & D FA only (also not the Da10-17).

LR3 has the FA Ltds covered (in RAW only).


Steve

Dougf8 - reckon you got an in store error 'cos Bath Halfords had it at £19.99 this morning. Not desperate for an LED lantern, so gave it a miss.

But an interesting idea all the same which will be stored at the back of the mind for retrieval sometime in the future.