Sorry just seen this post from 14 years ago!

For anyone with this same problem just remove the winder arm and check the 2 x nuts underneath are not over tightened. The first nut screws off clockwise whilst the second nut screws off anti-clockwise.

I would go for the CZJ sonnar design. It is capable of taking beautifully rendered images without any Photoshopping needed. My 'other half's' all-time favourite shot of our son was taken with the MC version of the lens. I would try and get the multi-coated (MC) version if possible.

As far as I know only a few of the earlier Ricoh lenses (maybe confined to just the M42 mount) are considered to have been made by Tomioka. I have got the impression that they made all their own lenses for the last 30 years or so (XR onwards). The Rikenon 135/2.8 has a good reputation but I do not think that it renders as beautifully as the CZJ.

I have about thirty 135/2.8 lenses which are all waiting for the day when I take them out for a 'shoot out'... big job that I need to undertake soon...

S

In my personal experience I would say go for it. As long as they are made of metal, are black on the inside and are roughly 13, 21, 31mm in their individual sizes.

S

I would choose the DA 16-45/4 as it is my most used lens... very sharp, contrast is excellent and it is very resistant to flare and CA. Manual focusing takes some practice to become intuitive but it is surely an underrated lens in general.

I regretted selling the 43 Ltd. but it seemed like a bit of a luxury at the time as I couldn't think of that many uses for it

The 50-135/2.8 produces very impressive IQ but in the last 2 years I've used it only a handful of times.

The FA50/1.4 was almost too perfect so I sold it in favour of a Tomioka 55/1.4 ...but the jury is still out on whether I did the right thing.

S

I've got one and I use it a lot. It is "dinky dee" and is excellent for street photography. It is pretty sharp but there is also noticeable barrel distortion so for landscapes with horizons (and similar subjects) you may need to spend time correcting the barrel distortion post capture. The f/3.2 maximum aperture doesn't really affect my use of it. On balance it's a great little lens at a good price.

Regards,

SImon

This should be posted in the 'Your Photos' section of the forum.

It looks like an earlyish Sigma lens to me due to the style of typeface used for the barrel markings. I doubt it's a macro lens as it seems to only focus down to 0.3m - unless the distance scale extends further than we can see. The 'lock'/'unlock' ring makes the bottom of the lens look like an uncommon example of a Sigma 'Adaptall' style mount. Is it listed as a Pentax mount lens?

Batty

The English language PDFs can be found here:

http://www.pentaxslr.com/bodies/k20

Same thing happened to me. I didn't want to sell my MZ-S but I just wasn't using it enough to warrant keeping it. I sold it with the grip for about £350 one year ago.

Good luck if you do sell it.

Regards,

Batty

The problem with your aperture ring sticking is likely to be a small metal part that was weakly bonded to the lens by the use of plastic. This metal part, when it works itself loose, causes this 'sticking' problem and can eventually stop you turning the aperture ring past f/11. A small screw and some super glue bonds this part back in place much stronger than it was originally. It should be a very cheap repair. If you attempt it yourself be very careful as parts can easily get lost - especially the ball bearing!

All the best,

Batty