Looking at the other post , you will have a max aperture of 5.6 at 200mm. That is slow and in darker conditions you will need to use a slow shuter speed to get a correct exposure. Even with S/R you are going to get camera shake at 1/60th second and below.

What shutter speeds are you shooting at ?

No love coming my way either

On a seperate note someone on Flickr made me a "friend" recently. When I looked them up, no photos, but thousands of "friends" ........ all with Peter in their name !!!

I didn't reciprocate.

Hi DarkM

I know it doesnt answer your question , but I think the jewel in the crown was your scanned b+w of the Engine Driver.

Very good , made me chuckle.

Lovely shots. I can smell the fresh air !

I don't think this is right Gwyn ?

When you save an image you have processed from a raw file you save it as TIFF;JPEG;PSD....etc, you are not saving the changes to the raw file itself ?

I know that with most software, if you were to open the raw file again you would see the adjustments you made (because the software records the information), but by selecting default settings in the raw converter you would be back to the original unprocessed raw file ? This is certainly how it works with Silkypix.

Piglet, shield your eyes.

Womble

Love the station roof.

Great image RR.

A UV or skylight filter was a natural thing to put on all your lenses when shooting film. It would help with the slight blueish cast that shooting outdoors would bring on film.

This is unnecessary on digital, so the only reason you would use one would be for protection.

The digital sensor is more susceptible to stray scattered light than film, so many reccomend not using a filter as it just adds an extra piece of glass into the light path. This is also a reason why the hood is very important (and adds some protection to boot).

I dont use filters for protection , unless I suppose I was snapping on a windswept beach !

ps. I have never damaged the front of a lens element in 30 years.