rhayles

Anvh is correct. When in Manual exposure mode you can use the green button to get the camera to give you a correct exposure. It is like having an instant Program mode button. You can set the aperture and shutter to what you like.....press the green button and it resets them to give you correct exposure. If you turn the dials again you are setting the exposure manually again.

However the camera gives you option to fine tune this so when you press the green button only the aperture changes, or only the shutter changes. It seems that you have set the latter option. But this will only happen when you press the button, and you can then set whatever values you like for Tv and Av.

So to answer you original question, you do not have to "get out of this" situation. You have not "locked" anything. You have only set the camera to shift the shutter speed to give you correct exposure..... but only when in Manual mode and only once, when you press the green button.

Now whether this will give you correct exposure will depend on your available light, and the aperture and ISO you have selected, but I feel that is for another thread.

Also , dont get confused with the following:

F1.4 is written 1:1.4 (it is a ratio)

F4 is written 1:4 (this is three whole stops slower that the F1.4)

And the Stops (full) on the aperture run:

1, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32

So if you get correct exposure at f2.8 and 1/30th second, you will be able to get the same exposure at f2.0 and 1/60th second.

The aperture settings can be selected at "half-stops" ie. f3.5 or f2.4.

in your example of f1.2 to 1.4, that is a half stop.

I like the first one, lovely colours. The composition of the second is good too with the sloping grass. If you had been more fortunate with the light it would have been better.

With a "pro" account you have no limit on uploading pictures.

...and well desrved too. Well done

Mongoose,

How long did you work as a sniper for special forces ?

Hi Father

I really like the composition of the second one, but I am not sure about the burnt highlight?

The first one appears on my monitor to have a very grainy colour to it. I dont know if that is the right phrase and I am not a photoshop expert, but it appears you have tried to bring out colour or brightness in post procesing and ended up with this affect ...posterization ? I hope one of our resident experts can advise here as I am not sure if I am right. i have seen this affect on some of my photos, and I apologise if that was your intention to render the photo this way.

I do like the shapes in the second image though.

It is still a 200mm lens, but the crop sensor image needs more magnification/enlargement than a 35mm neg or full frame sensor, and thus any camera shake would be more noticeable.

This is how I came up with the 1/60 minimum with S/R. Assuming 2 stops of gain with the S/R from 300mm.

The 200mm lens does not actually become a 300mm lens, but for handholding purposes you you treat it as such.