Not with my µ4/3 bodies even the unmodified ones

As Tigershoot reasoned, they work just the same, but for cameras with live-view thats generally a better option.
I used the IR marks when shoot IR with my k100d.

Another lovely set. IR works so well in the current weather

The B&W versions for me, all are great shots.
It seems very unusual to have the tower left with the church it's far more common for the tower to be removed as unsafe.

I've built up a collection of nearly 20 M42 lenses. Only 1 of them has been over £10, so postage is usually a significant factor.
I think all my purchases have been made locally or been as part of a bundle (essentially free with something else I was getting).
But a quick look at e-bay as @davidwozhere suggested shows there are still hundreds if you select free postage only...

Currently (BIN) include a £13 (with postage) industar-50-2 pancake lens which IMO can be quite good.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Industar-50-2-50mm-f-3-5-USSR-lens-M42/232854681898?h...
I have no connection with the seller & have no way of telling the lens's condition beyond the listing.
I got mine bundled with a camera

I just use aperture priority for jets, (typically wide open) & shutter priority for props (speed used varies a bit with aircraft)
But yes even so I sometimes forget to switch

I don't thinks any of my jet shots compare well with these. Great job especially for a first show!

Fungus isn't usually too much of an issue but if it,s been there a long time it can etch the glass. Cleaning is then not possible.
That shouldn't be the case for 'light fungus spots' which as they say should have very little effect on the results, at least if they're not on the rear element. They can probably be seen in the Bokeh if you inspect carefully, but otherwise will probably only reduce contrast marginally.

Results look great.
I'd like to have radio TTL flash, but I find the cactus transceivers are too expensive for the amount I'd expect to use it. I guess I'll have to stick to my TTL cables.

Perhaps if I start using my newly acquired larger brollies I might find the limited range of the cables excessively restrictive. Glad to hear there's now a great system if I do feel the need!

Then your living in cloud cuckoo land. Any water sealing will wear as it's opened & closed. This is no doubt the main reason no camera manufacturer quotes an ingress protection rating for a DSLR.

Water resistant watches generally loose there rating if the battery is replaced. If they don't is because the seals have been replaced at the same time as the battery.

A friend of mine does underwater photography around the world using expensive housings rated to 100m+ every time he dives he pressure checks the housing to ensure it's still pressure tight. On one of his trips there was someone else who was less careful - they lost use of their camera on day 1 and had to spend the rest of the week on the dive boat without a camera.

It would be possible to make a fully sealed compact camera if Data transfer from the non removable media was via something like bluetooth & charging was via an inductive pad...

New Zealand has one big issue for me, the journey to get there!
It's a fantastic place to photograph, i found some great spots along the forgotten highway on North Island, but these were then completely outclassed by South Island's Fjordland Park.