richandfleur wrote "The main point really is that RAW files contain more info in the shadows and highlight areas. You have more information to play with if you are making adjustments in these regions."

This was the case with this image of a gate at Greys Court, shot in the shadows. The words on the top bar were not easily read in the jpeg but adjusting shadows and highlights in Adobe RAW of PSE11 enabled me to clarify them




The effect on the image The little swordsman was even more dramatic

Peter

I am totally sold on RAW files but save to both RAW & JPEG so that I can have a quick look at the JPEGs before deciding which shots I like best and want to look better.

Have a quick look at my image 'Little swordsman' which I posted yesterday where I stated that this was my demonstration of WHY I save in RAW - the JPEG was very dark as I had to shoot into the sun. However, it only took a few seconds work on the RAW file using the RAW plugin of Photoshop Elements 11 to bring out the detail.

As Nigel said above, it does take some practice before you get the hang of things but the secret is really just 'having a go !'

Also as said above, first save the file under a new name then experiment with the various sliders to see what effect they have. The purists will tell you to watch the graphical display at the top of the window but I must admit that I normally simply look at the image and make adjustments till I see the effect I like !

With a bit of practice it only takes a few seconds work and you will be amazed at the differences it can make !

As Del Boy said "He who dares, Rodney !"

Good luck

Peter

Quote ! All of the above ! What else can I add ?

Really great shots and the timing of No 1 was really superb.

Success duly deserved - well done !

Best regards
Peter

Sorry, I should have reported earlier that my £40 cashback on the K50 arrived last Friday - also rather a long delay !

Peter

I recently upgraded from the K-r to a K50 and whilst it has a better sensor (it has the same one as the K5 I believe) that was only one of several reasons.

The K50 has a WR body and I got it as the 'bargain bundle' with the 18-135WR lens so I can now go out in 'traditional' English weather without having to shield the camera and lens under my waterproof jacket as I did in the past ! So that makes 3 good reasons all in one go !

The K50 also has the TAv function which was absent on the K-r so I can now be more creative (when time permits !)

The K50 is a similar weight to the K-r so still as easy to carry around - even if I could have afforded a K3 I would not have wanted the extra weight. A personal thing, perhaps, but that's what choices are all about.

At the end of the day you must decide what your priorities are and what type of photos you want to take. You say you are interested in portraits so I would suggest your other option of 'good glass' is probably the next step, i.e. a fast prime, probably around the good old 50mm to start ? The K-r is perfectly capable of taking sharp photos and as John Riley has said it is the person behind the lens that makes the photo !

Good luck & best regards
Peter

I think it has been said many times above that moderns DSLRs are highly technical pieces of equipment and the way each model behaves may be subtly different from another even of the same make. Please take time to really get to know your camera and the different camera/lens combinations.

My other main hobby is driving tuition and we often say that the most unreliable part in any car is 'the nut behind the wheel' ! I recently upgraded to the newer version of my previous car and although it is the same make and the same model it behaves quite differently from the old one and I'm having to adjust my driving habits to get the best out of it.

As regards my photography I also recently upgraded from a K-r to a K50 and whilst I left the new camera on 'P' initially I always save in both JPEG and RAW and work on the RAW files to optimise the results.

As others have said, once you get more experience with the vast range of options available to you you will eventually 'see the light' (sorry) and you will wonder what the problem was. That is the drawback with having so many variables available to you - it takes time to know which settings are best for each situation ! I'm in my 70's but I firmly believe in the expression 'you are never too old to learn !'

Have fun !

Peter

Many thanks for that feedback, Charlie.
Hopefully all is NOT lost with my claim then !
However, it is a bit 'off' them not reading their own T's & C's re the 6 weeks when they were extremely prescriptive in narrowing the 'window' in which WE had to respond !

Best regards
Peter

Many thanks for the feedback.
Looks like they take longer to respond to K50 purchases !

Peter

Has anyone received their promised CashBack from Pentax yet ?

I bought my new K50 at the end of November 2014 and waited (as required) till early January before submitting my Claim Form.
Cash transfer was promised within 6 weeks but mine has NOT arrived despite the passing of 6 weeks since I sent the claim !

I tried calling the 'Helpline' (misnomer !) and was kept on hold (charging me for the call) so long I eventually gave up !

Anyone been more lucky ?

Peter

I had never tried video on a DSLR before I saw this thread and the comments contributed here got me thinking ! Therefore when I started 'playing' with my new K50 I thought I'd give it a try to capture the grandchildren over Christmas. I'm now SOLD ! As others have said it is so inconvenient to have to carry a camcorder as well as the DSLR and since still photos demand the latter it is a 'no brainer' !
The essence of 'family photos' is catching the moment. Sometimes this means a still shot but an instant later a movie is better and there is no time to put one camera down and pick up another before that moment has passed forever.

I too will look forward to any tips Rich can pass our way.