Now I have at last had success in getting photos into the'Forum' without just getting the 'link' and no actual photo I may try to show some experiments such as this.

I have had trouble uploading pics to the forum so I am trying that technique to see if it works with two photos of my latest PENTAX a free gift, all Auto everything including Auto Find the Prizewinners!

I have done C41 for years as I had to for the local Press when they 'went COLOUR' -- I have used Champion chemicals,now get CPAC developer from PhotoMart, Walthamstow, Kodak Flexicolor Bleach I was given and Agfa Universal Fixer from a lab in Basildon and the Fuji Stabilser I was given from the Echo newspaper Basildon years ago -- it all works well. For temperature I use a water bath from a free Walls Ice-Cream container I got from a shop in Weald Park that holds a row of three 500 ml containers I got free from chemicals I used up and kept the containers. I put nearly boiling water into the Walls Ice-cream plastic thing and the dev tank loaded with film into another pot surrounded by hot water, then when the Developer reaches 104oF I pour it into the Paterson tank,agitate immediately for 15 secs, then at 1 minute I qickly check the temperature and find it is 100oF exactly, then agitate every 30 secs until 3 mins,then on 3mins 10 secs pour out dev and pour in Bleach and agitate,(it has had the 3mins 15 secs dev time by then) and so on .For wash I get a jug of hot water at 100oF and use the 'Ilford Limited' method of washing. After 1 min 30secs in the Stabilise it is done and I hang up the 'Perfect' negs !

I have an 'ELICAR' ring flash I got for £5 at the camera club and it has a 49mm fitting for screwing onto the lens-- I have used it with my K10D Digital with my 1979 50mm SMC Macro-Takumar screw lens and it works OK then I have held itover the lens of my Pentax 6x7 and it works OK !

Leave well alone,that's my Motto ! I haven't done anything to my K10D since I got it in about 2006 or 2007 and it still works-- not even use the 'dust shaking off' thingy as there is no dust inside to shake off !

I think I told this story before -- but repeat --- my first film developing was in 1951when I joined the School Photo-soc. we made up our own developers from chemicals as shown by the Chemistry Master,'Gabby' Heyes,and I still do today !! -- Then I cycled about 4 miles to Marston and Heard's Leytonstone, from Manor Park (East London) and bought some ex-RAF B&W film of unknown'speed'for 6d a roll,loaded it into my Mum's Kodak Brownie Hawkeye 120 box camera, and when the 8 frames had been exposed blacked out the bathroom with a gray blanket, put some red paper around the 60 watt bulb ( as it was 'Orthochromatic Film') as a 'safelight',mixed up a spoonful of home-made developer in a dish my Mum used to make Tapioca Pudding in and I used for hatching Frog Spawn(not at the same time!)then 'see-sawed' the film through the developer, water rinse and fixer and got some wonderful grey, streaky images I though were the bees-knees !

Don't use 'flash on camera' then you will not get that 'shine' -- I never use a polariser and take my photos in the bathroom on a blue cloth bought for 60p in Romford Market, using natural light from the window,with the camera balanced on a bucket my wife uses for her bleach and cleaners -- will try to show you some results from my Flickr collection if I can get it right ----
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4327624973_0241fb050c.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4328358240_aae4a11d82.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2793/4328358154_f1cf4a3d01.jpg

I was GIVEN one-a P30n and don't like the fact the film is 'DX'coded and NO exposure compensation and NO pc plug for studio flash -- my MX,Me Supers and LX are much better, then I can downrate my outdated films easily as there is 'manual ASA setting' no DX nonsense !

Thanks for all your 'expert'advice-- I just wondered if I had to change the K10D resolution of 72 to 300 for 'Magazine Quality' printing and if the 'upload' would be swamped with a large amount of pixels straight out of the camera like an e-mail is if it is too big it will not handle it -- so I will upload from camera at 72 and the pixel size from the K10D set to maximum quality and see what happens ! I am more used to just sending them Real Prints and /or Transparencies but thought I would have a go to submit in 'Digital Format' over the Ether !

I'm not sure about sending photos for the magazine Gallery from this site-- my K10D 'resolution' comes out at 72 and the pixels on 10MP setting are over 3000 and the Gallery info says it needs 1000x1000 pixels to print in the mag. ( which is SQUARE!) My question is : do I just upload the 72 res 3000 odd pixels photo (having done any fixes in PhotoShop 7 and saved in computer)or do I have to set resolution to 300 for Magazine printing and downsize photo to around 1000 pixels longest side: will it upload a larger file of unchanged 3000 odd pixels ?