It does seem that moire is less likely with larger and the most modern sensors. Presumably thats why makers have started to offer the aa filter-less options. Also there have been reports here of other factors coming into play apart from the filter - such as focal length and aperture, distance from the offending subject etc. So there does seem to be some ways to reduce it if its unavoidable. I'm not too convinced on any software solutions though, as they still rely essentially on blurring techniques, so can only be limited to small areas where the effects won't matter, and the point of having no aa filter was to reduce blur in the first place.




Should I give him a link? A bit reluctant, as I'm sure everyone has heard more than enough of what I said about it . But its relavent though, certainly for the weighing up and personal choice. And in fact in the image I tested there was an area of very clear and distinct moire on the 's' image, where the 'non-s' image was unnaffected.

So OP, check it out ..... you may decide the £100 is better off staying with you for something else (pentaxforums.com ....
link )

You can get quite powerful WB control with even the hotshow flash in manual - by adjusting shutter speed & aperture. Under tungsten lighting you have two light sources, the warmer ambient light from the tungsten and the cool flash light. Assuming the aperture is not too critical you can quite delicately manipulate the effect - slower shutter speeds will bring in more warmer tone, and wider apertures will increase the flash power, so restoring the cooler tone.

I have found that much finer control can be exerted this way, especially if using 1/3rd stop increments, than any white balance control, either software or on camera - and the colour quality is better too.

Ah well, he must have missed the meal-deal then, which included a bag a crisps.

Very well worth the effort! They're all beautiful, great job. No3 is my favourite for the rich blue sky, but colour-wise they're all up there.

Maybe having that strip of beach on the right-side of No1 doesn't add much?

I like No 2 best, great action capture but that lovely soft 'under-lighting' makes it special.

David, does the K511 low-light AF still use the green AF assist lamp, like I have on the K7? I have found this useful, and it can lock on in darkness, but it does take its time, and can still hunt a bit.

Most reports I've followed, both from users and reviews, suggest that the AF improvements in the K5II versions are well worth the extra outlay over the MK1. I believe this is both for faster AF response & improved low-light auto-focusing. For you, at this particular upgrade junction, I'd have thought the K5II was clearly the way to go. This assumes you do plenty of AF work and have the lenses. (eg for me, with only one AF zoom and using mostly manual lenses this particular question wouldn't necessarily be significant).

I think its the high contrast that's giving that excess saturation and brightness. I do think a small contrast reduction will do the trick, but maybe the others earlier on were worried about an adverse effect on the black point? - I agree that Father Ted doesn't want to lose depth in the shadows, so any contrast reduction should be restricted to the upper tonal areas.

That's my specialty It's not a big deal, just a finer point. Maybe its only a tweak to the white balance, or a small blue/cyan reduction. If you're using the Photoshop or PS Elements Hue/Saturation dialogue, select the blue & cyan channels individually, pull down the amount a bit, and balance that with an increase to the Luminance control - this will restore lost light from the colour channel and keep the shine.

OK, I'm well and truely out-gunned on that one then. I admit, looking on another monitor the overall contrast is not excessive. I guess what I'm really seeing here is that the lighting is quite harsh, and doesn't do the squirrels any favours - I wonder then if a small highlight reduction would help - just reducing the upper end of the contrast range?