Tyr,
Last time I checked the Maplin ones are different and the SD card sticks out the end. That's ok for the Flashtrax, but for using inside an *ist-D you'll need the one I mentioned
Matt

As a follow up...

Have just been upgrading my Flashtrax to 160Gb
Takes all of 5 minutes... but while I was at it, I

* Put a 160Gb in the Flashtrax, partitioned it but not formatted it at all
* Installed Paragon Software's Partition Manager Personal (Drive Copy) on my Tosh laptop
* Connected the Flashtrax to the Tosh
* Duplicated my 60Gb onto the Flashtrax which took about 2hrs
* Removed the drive from the Flashtrax and installed in the Tosh

Now I have a 160Gb in the Tosh that works exactly as before (except it's a tad faster). Definite thumbs up for Drive Copy

Then put a fresh 160Gb in the Flashtrax and formatted that as per the thread. Works a treat Suddenly feel there's much more room!

Matt

Just another piece of useful information...

The K10D RAW format is different when compared with the *ist-D.
But amazingly the Flashtrax still reads the K10D PEF format thumbnail Looks like they wrote their handler to be flexible enough to cope

Obviously, if you shoot DNG, then the Flashtrax isn't going to show any images.
(My only gripe is that the Flashtrax is sooooo slooooow, especially when copying 2Gb of K10D stuff. It didn't seem so bad when using the *ist-D, but since the K10D is so fast it's made the Flashtrax seem slower )

EDIT: And this thread: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CnXM
Might upgrade my Flashtrax to 160Gb....

Matt

Graham,
I did put a link here for the one I purchased. Be aware there are TWO types.

The most common type mean the SD card sticks out.
The one I got the SD card fits snugly inside and I can use the adapter+SD card in the *ist-D and the Flashtrax.

BTW, there are not just plastic and metal. There's a whole bunch of electronics in there because the interfaces are completely different between SD and CF!

I'll see if I can rustle up the supplier...

EDIT: http://www.digitalera.co.uk/product/sd-card-to-type-ii-compact-flash-card-adapte...
£17.99

Matt

Close. I can think of two occasions
I've used it when doing macro shots where there are highlights behind. The DOF preview helps you to see what blooming and bokeh there'll be from the background.

But yes, taking a shot and previewing on the LCD is a million times easier and more accurate too
Matt

Depth of field preview allows you to see how much will be in focus, and what happens to bright highlights.

It has to stop the lens down to the aperture you have programmed to use (or the camera has chosen) - that's why the view finder goes dark. The camera turns off the lights so you can concentrate on the view

It's easier to use "Av" mode where you can choose the aperture. If you choose f/22 and use the preview it will go very dark indeed. As you get nearer to wide open (f/4 etc) then the view becomes progressively brighter (because the aperture blades are letting more light in).

It takes a bit of getting used to, but this is the DOF preview used in all SLR cameras since the year dot! (The K10D adds an LCD preview function as well as optical view finder preview.)

Hope that helps!
Matt

Pete,
You can help the AF along a bit...

Switch the focus selector on the back to "Centre Only" - point the very middle of the viewfinder on something you can see has contrast and focus with that.

Personally, I find it much easier to use the custom function that disables focus-on-half-press-of-shutter and just use the "AF" button on the back

Generally I can get a focus in very low light if there's a spot of contrast (like the subject's eyes).

But, yes, low light = low contrast = difficulty in getting a focus lock.
And, no, it's not firmware fixable (ALL cameras have this problem in low light, perhaps to varying degrees). But Pentax have given enough custom options to be able to use the camera very, very sensibly.

Matt

Try a Google search...
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
Could be up to a few hundred volts on the 45CT1.

According to this post, http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JlFD , they say serial numbers below 534,000 are high voltage.

You can always measure it with a meter - across the outer shoe and middle pin (but DON'T TOUCH with your fingers )
Matt

Yes.

You choose RAW as the main mode of capture. Then, pressing the "RAW" button will temporarily enable RAW+JPG, but never JPG only.
Matt

Is it?
I would've thought the maths were fairly straight foward...
The packages that I've used are PTLens, and Silkypix, but then I didn't pay too much attention to the tilt factor.
Matt