MattMatic

Joined: 2nd July 2002

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MattMatic
Gimpshop? ( www.gimpshop.net )
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Pentax RAW codec for Vista at 29/04/2007 - 21:44

MattMatic
Brian is right
SDM = Super Direct-drive Motor (apparently)

(comparable to the offerings from C&N)

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on K10D Firmware Update 1.20 at 27/04/2007 - 06:48

MattMatic
Originally posted by petekd on a new topic. Moved here:


Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:06 pm Post subject: Colour + B&W image (another attempt)
Hi Guys,

Here is my second attempt at Colour + B&W

Enjoy

Comments welcome

Comment Image

Comment by MattMatic posted on Red White & Blue at 26/04/2007 - 16:02

MattMatic
Yes, the 5D is full frame and capable of superb results. But - most suggest you need to use "L" glass to get the best. And that's full frame "L" glass with a full frame price tag

And the weight

...I did also hear that Canon sell the 5D at an unprofitably price, and make it up with the lenses

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Yeow! Cannon 5D at 26/04/2007 - 10:24

MattMatic
If you blow out the highlights then there's absolutely nothing you can do to recover them.
If you completely underexpose, then there's no way to recover the values at zero.

All digital camera sensors are linear, whereas f-stops are logarithmic. Assuming you shoot RAW, and we're talking 12-bit RAW, there will be 4096 discrete values.
The top 1-stop will contain 2048 values
The next 1-stop will contain 1024 values
The next 1-stop will contain 512 values
The next 1-stop will contain 256 values etc

Consequently, there is an expression - "ETTR" - Expose To The Right (of the Histogram). That is, you expose so you just get the tail right up to the right edge of the histogram (or as close as you can).

That way you'll have the most detail in the highlights, and you'll still have plenty of dynamic range to pull detail out of shadows.

Even for low-key subjects you'll get more detail if you still ETTR and pull down the exposure when you develop RAW

But.... but... since the K10D uses a 22-bit ADC, and there's nothing specifically said, I do wonder if they have put a small amount of non-linearity in their mapping from 22-bit to 12-bit. So the above information may be nearly right. However, the general principle still holds

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on (K10D) Can more detail be recovered from ... at 26/04/2007 - 10:22

MattMatic
My personal favourite is the 50mm f/1.4

It's a real beauty - astonishingly sharp, beautiful bokeh, and superb for candids and low light photography. I've used it mostly for portraiture, but also for a walkabout lens - it does make you think hard about the creative process being restricted to a single prime

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on 50mm f/1.4, 35mm f/2.0, 40mm f/2.8 at 25/04/2007 - 03:19

MattMatic
The Pentax CS-205 is the one
I have one and use it with the *ist-D, *ist-DS, and K10D.

It's just a 2.5mm stereo plug with a button on a short cable. (And I've also documented the pin outs should you wish to make your own )

And... a 2.5mm stereo headphone extension cable is a useful addition

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Hama Remote Cable Release at 24/04/2007 - 15:53

MattMatic
Sorry, no direct experience of that unit. However, Hama stuff tends to be well made and functional. I've bought and used various bits of their kit over the years.

Since the remote unit is simply a button with two contacts there's probably no difference in use to the Pentax one

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Hama Remote Cable Release at 24/04/2007 - 14:39

MattMatic
The answer is tucked away in the specifications on page 223.
Quote:
AE Lock:
Button type (timer type: two times the meter operating time set in Custom Setting) Continuous as long as the shutter button is halfway pressed)
So, yes, it's the time the meter operates for when you half press (hence "Meter Operating Time", and as specified, the AE-L is twice that time.

Clearer than mud now
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on What's Exposure Metering Time? at 24/04/2007 - 14:32

MattMatic
Quote:
I use the current flash unit for team photos and staged shows (for the school I work for) and also the ocassional private function for friends which might contain portraits and group shots.
I nearly missed this

Ken is absolutely right. A portable flash is going to be a bit pathetic in such an occasion. For stage shots you are always better using available light - I use a monopod when I can, and a fast lens (50mm/1.4 or 100mm/2.

Using a hot-shoe mounted gun will lose all the atmosphere of the show and look like you just punched the light out - complete with harsh shadows and red-eye. Yuck

Studio kits have come down a lot in price, and something like the Elinchrom DLite-2 kit is a rather tempting option....

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on K10d Flash Units at 24/04/2007 - 14:37

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