I'm inclined to agree
(Keeps the noise floor down in the signal-to-noise ratio)
Matt

You could've emailed Silkypix direct
From their FAQ: http://www.isl.co.jp/SILKYPIX/english/support/faqds20e.html#0012

You should also make sure you have administrative rights before installing the application.
Hope that helps
Matt

Peter,
Yes, you can use two applications. I use Picasa for quick location of images, and Silkypix for my RAW conversion. (You can see how I organise things in my Silkypix guide, IIRC.)

Silkypix is definitely worth persisting with - and I think you'll find you do far less messing around in Photoshop (Elements)
Matt

Nearly.
Yup

To expand: the Pentax converter uses the Silkypix v2 "engine". It'll give very fine results indeed.
The paid version (v3) includes features such as:
* Colour choices - e.g. Velvia, Provia, etc
* Fine tuning of colour (using a colour wheel). Very powerful
* Full curves
* Noise reduction
* Excellent sharpening options
* Barrel & vignetting distortion correction
* Upsizing (so you can output absolutely massive size images)
* Tastes (preset functions)

There's more too...

The Free Silkypix may give better results compared to the Pentax converter. However, the Pentax one will read all the camera settings and allow an automatic output of JPG - which is useful if you're in a hurry.

It's definitely worth the money... it's just whether you'll use the features
Matt

FWIW, I bought some Jettec cartridges from Picstop.co.uk for use on an old Epson Stylus Photo 870.
To be honest, I can't tell the difference from the original Epsons - which I was very surprised by! Colour was still spot on.
(But for long term prints, I tend to use a print service and get real photographic prints )
Matt

Check out these old threads:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5866
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5631

Hope they help!
Matt

Or... if you're into landscapes:
Get the 16-45 (which is excellent, BTW), and a set of decent ND grads (like the Cokin Z-Pro + Lee Foundation holder).
Matt

Which camera???

If you're talking *ist-D/Ds/K10D etc then I have the following setup:
* In the custom menu, disable the AF-on-halfpress
* (For the K10D) make sure the custom function for the AF button is set to "Enable AF"

Then, you focus with your thumb by pressing the AF button on the back. (For the *ist-Ds it uses the OK button when you enable this mode). The shutter will always fire - even when it's out of focus.

Hope that helps!
Matt

C1v4 has some nice touches - especially the highlights & shadows features. However, unless you buy the (expensive) pro version, you'll be missing out on: lens distortion corrects, vignette controls, highlight recovery, film colour emulation, arbitrary rotation, upsizing beyond 100%... plus better noise reduction and sharpening (IMHO).

Don't get me wrong, I like C1v4 from what I've seen, and I'll get at least three copies (one bought, 2 from Sandisk cards), but for real work I still use Silkypix DS3.

I often find that trying out images in another converter sometimes help unlock a tricky image, or helps when I'm getting bogged down in stuff.

Hope that's useful!
Matt

The beta can be downloaded already
(It will work until November 2nd... I think...)
Matt