You can use everything but wireless P-TTL flash

To do wireless P-TTL with the K100D, *ist-DS, K110D you need to have TWO AF360 flash guns - one as a master, one as a slave. Only the *ist-D and the K10D can use the pop-up flash as a wireless controller/master.

That said, you can use the "dumb slave" mode on the AF360 and trigger from the pop-up flash. Check out my guide to digital flash for the "how to"

All the other comments about exposure, manual mode, etc are all applicable.

Hope that helps!
Matt

The pop-up flash will always issue two flashes.
You might not always see the two, but there are definitely two. If you want a slave flash, then you have two options:
1) Buy a P-TTL compatible flash (like the AF360 or AF540 from Pentax)
2) Get a digital slave adapter that can ignore the preflash. e.g. search for "Digital Slave Flash Sensor SF4 Ignores Preflash" in ebay.co.uk. Then you can use any flash.

All flash setups take at least a little practice. There is no magic solution to providing good lighting

Matt

EDIT:
Ok, I see from the last couple of shots that you have upgraded

I really, really would suggest reading my guide... there's a lot in there, but it's worth understanding most of it

In my experience, there are situations where you go "Huh?!" with the flash exposure. However, there's usually a rational explanation, and a way around the situation (it's a bit like having to learn about exposure compensation when taking photos of all white, and all black objects).

For the most natural shots:
1) Use "M" mode on the camera
2) Choose an ISO appropriate to the scene (ie use a higher ISO in the dark!)
3) Put away the flash (or power off the external flash) and meter with the M button
4) You can adjust the exposure to around -1 underexposed
5) Turn on the flash and take the shot

The P-TTL (PRE FLASH - ie TWO flashes) will kick in, do its metering stuff and you'll get a shot where the whole scene is good... but looking at the scenes you have taken, most of them will need a tripod too.

You will notice the preflash particularly when the pop-up is working hard. If the preflash senses that it's going to need a lot of light, then there'll be a slightly longer pause before the shutter goes up (while it recharges the flash).

Hope that goes some way to explaining this (complex) topic
Matt

Ok, points:
1) Upgrade the firmware - you have v1.00 Pentax updated the flash exposure and functions (allowing wireless flash etc)

2) In outdoor shots (like the procession) the pop-up flash will be as good as a candle. You can't light up a huge space with a tiny light source. You might be lucky and the flash may have an effect on the people nearest, but not on the scene as a whole.

3) Reflective items confuse the flash exposure. (e.g. sequins, mirrors etc). The camera reads the reflection as part of the scene and "corrects" the exposure.

Once you've upgraded the firmware, and read my guide to P-TTL flash, then give it a try again and let us know
(And note: as I keep mentioning, there will always be situations where the automatic exposure just can't get it right. I can explain more fully later, but let's start with the above points first!)

Matt

You are seeing the P-TTL (Preflash Through The Lens). The flash fires first to gauge the exposure before actually firing for the main. That's why you see it through the viewfinder

I suspect you are probably trying to push the pop-up too hard - it's only a little flash after all!

Check out this detailed thread first:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4950

HTH,
Matt

LOL! Exactly what I did... had about 2 hours to sort it out for a wedding
(It's better now it's been hacked properly )
Matt

You will need to put insulation. A piece of 35mm film seems to do the trick

Even if you use the 5P connector on the side of the AF540, any shorts on the flash's hotshoe will scupper the communication between camera and flash.

I hacked an old Pentax 4P grip - drilled and filed out the 5th hole (so it wouldn't touch) and also drilled out the little locking hole in the grip (the AF540 has a small pin that descends when you tighten the locking nut).

EDIT: If you use wireless flash from the pop-up on the camera, then there doesn't appear to be any issues with shorting on the hotshoe AFAIK. It's only when the flash is tethered to the camera that things can go awry.

Have fun!
Matt

Ed Hamrick's Vuescan should work. As long as the SCSI interface is ok then you should be find with it. (I have a couple of 2k/XP compatible PCI SCSI cards if you get desperate!)
Matt

"All these Canons and Nikons taking my photo! At last!! A Pentax!!"


Matt

It's probably just dust inside the main chamber.
Get a "Rocket Blower" and a soft brush.

A full clean (as quoted) is pretty time consuming and will include disassembly and internal cleaning.

Try the blower first! (And don't use compressed air, or worse - blow it with your mouth!)

HTH!
Matt