Try taking that last picture again with the camera upside down. If it's still on the upper LHS (ie bottom RHS for the sofa the right way up) then it's the lens.
However, looking at then shot - it looks like the shallow DoF and the inside curve of the sofa.

You could also try taking against an evenly lit wall or floor.
Matt

George,
DCRAW is a single C file that decodes the RAW files of most cameras. As such it is embedded into many applications. It's kind of a "building block" that can also be compiled and used stand-alone.
Generally, though, the source code for the main application is available (as is the latest dcRAW), so it's not impossible to rebuild the app to have the latest dcRAW internals

Links: http://gwenview.sourceforge.net/ & http://cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/
Matt

And if you need it, there's all K10D versions here:
http://www.pentax.ca/digital/digital_slr/k10d/firmware_110.php
http://www.pentax.ca/digital/digital_slr/k10d/firmware_111.php
http://www.pentax.ca/digital/digital_slr/k10d/firmware_120.php
http://www.pentax.ca/digital/digital_slr/k10d/firmware_130.php


Matt

From what I've read on the Internet, you need version 1.10. And I've also read that the K10D needs a little encouragement to get version 1.10 in there.

I'm merely relating what I've read elsewhere

Here are some links (let the reader use some discernment ):
http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2007/01/focus-calibrations-for-pentax-dslr.html
http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2007/02/secret-firmware-menu-of-k10d-v110.html
http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2007/09/how-to-get-back-to-older-version-of.html

Matt

Mechanical tweaks are a seriously bad idea. AFAIK there is a complex AF table that has to be initialised on a special test-bed. Trip back to Japan for that I reckon.

The digital tweak was available in v1.10 (and can be restored to what it was)
Matt

Ken,
My K10D focus was off. All my lenses backfocussed. Everything was only really in focus if I used a small aperture.
The tweak was to bring the camera's AF system more into line with reality

As I said, it was more noticeable with the 50mm at f/1.4 (and for a long time I thought it was me until I tried the *ist-D again), and the SMC-DA 12-24 creating what looked like soft images (especially at infinity) - it was back-focussing infinity so that everything was soft. Now it's all pin sharp

Does that help?
Matt

Brian,
Your tests look just fine.
Although there may be a way to calibrate a single lens - I don't know how to do it.

My problem was consistent, repeatable, and across-the-board back-focus.
And, Peter, I didn't have it absolutely square either - that's not the point. The point is that (1) there is a very clear target to focus on, (2) you have a means of seeing where the focus lies by looking for the OOF numbers.

For example, on my 50mm f/1.4 test I had 2mm to 20mm behind in focus, with the target just on the edge of focus. Whenever I shot at f/8 or above there wasn't usually a problem - it was only shooting wide open the problem became obvious (which is something I do rather a lot).

I'll post some shots a bit later so you can see just what it was like

NOTE: Please only PM me about this if you actually have a problem. Please verify it first before asking
Matt

Just thought I'd share my little experience here...

Having used the K10D for a year now, there were situations where it just wasn't getting the shot I'd imagined. Particularly with the 12-24 I wasn't getting the clarity I'd have expected, which was a real shame.
I took a little run with the trusty old *ist-D and the SMC-FA 24-90 and got pin sharp results.

While testing my recently defungussed SMC-FA 80-320 I'd realised that the 12-24 on the K10D wasn't getting it in focus. I had to focus at around 1/2 way into the scene to get the infinity in focus. Very odd.

Then, while at London Zoo and using the SMC-F 50/1.4 I was getting back-focus while shooting at f/1.4. In the end I was focussing and then moving myself back a smidgen to try and get shots in focus.

So, I scared myself silly reading the depressing revolt site, read a few more things, and decided to run the focus test chart test ( http://www.focustestchart.com/ ) this morning. So, I setup a tripod and the chart and tested with all my lenses.

Guess what? They all back-focus No wonder I've had problems


Good news is, though, it's sorted, AFAICT. A little digital tweak was enough to sort out the issue and now I've got spot-on accuracy. DOH! I've only been having this for a year!
(I'm not going into how I did the tweak on this forum. PM me if you need any guidance though )


In addition, thought I'd share these tidbits I gleaned from this test:
* Centre focus point is within the circle of the spot meter area.
* The four corner focus points are very wide and tall. They actually seem to spread down to the middle horizon - which is not what I'd imagined. But they are bounded by the rectangular marks in the viewfinder. (Imagine them occupying the whole corner, rather than just where the LED sits)
* The two focus points to the left and right of centre are about the same height as the centre focus. Again, they don't spread out of the bounds of the box.


Now, I'm going to put the K10D through its paces again...
Matt

Kim,
Point taken. I usually do my best to resort mis-topic'd posts. But lately there's been quite a lot of activity and resorting is lowest on the list.
I've moved at least one though
Matt