Apparently it is for Pentax. But it's a death blow for a Canon
Matt

Wasn't that what I said??

When you find what you're looking for for £50, or even £100, with SMC coating, and no distortions... do let us know, won't you

You'll probably find it sitting at the end of the rainbow along with the pot of gold

Matt

Not a hope.
The SMC-DA 14mm will cost nearly ten times your miserly budget.

Making good, distortion free 14mm lenses is not something you can do on a shoe-string! And, as you can imagine, getting an old full frame 14mm will probably cost just as much.

You can always correct vignetting and distortions for free on the PC...
I picked up a 0.42x converter with an ebay job lot, and it's not that bad - as long as you don't try and push it (like facing into sun etc). Distortion is terrible, but correctable, and CA is awful. But it's a fun adapter, especially on a 28mm prime, as it affords a slightly kooky view of the world too

Have a look for Panotools - that's the free plugin that helps to correct things. If you're using a prime, then you've only got to suss out the numbers once and you can run the distortion correction everytime.

Additionally, Silkypix Developer Studio ($150 now, alas), allows for vignetting and distortion corrections up to a point. Very helpful, and an excellent RAW converter

Matt

Correct
And a full frame sensor DSLR I would expect to be in the region of £1500+ anyway. There's rumour of a larger sensor, but not full frame. Maybe a 1.3 crop (rather than 1.5) but who knows...?

As the proverb goes... "The farmer who watches the clouds will never reap"

Matt

I agree

Considering I paid close to £1200 for the *ist-D the current price of the K10D is an absolute steal (And if you give Chris at SRS Microsystems a call you'll probably get an even better price )
Note: But I've shot 15000 on the *ist-D. Couldn't imagine what it would've cost for Provia

Matt

I would say that RH's site does have some useful information. But the rest can be - depressing/annoying/aggravating (delete as appropriate).

It certainly can waste a lot of your time that you should be using to go out and take great photos!!
Matt

Just to add...
It is easiest to map the tablet to the monitor - that is, the tablet area represents the monitor area directly (unlike a mouse).

Your screen size is unimportant. Personally I prefer the A6 tablets as I don't have to keep moving my arm - only wrist. As I rest my elbow on the table I find that an A5 or A4 is too large when working for a long time.

The only problem is when you have two monitors. I have it setup so the mouse operates across both monitors, and the pen normally maps to the primary monitor. However, with the Wacom software you can map one of the barrel switches to change the pen from pen-mode to mouse-mode (and can then access both monitors). Not sure whether I could have two Wacom tablets...

Matt

AFAIK, the Intuos tablets have angle sense as well
Additionally they are much heavier and better made. Really built for pro use.

That said, I use the older Graphire tablets and have never had a problem for Photoshopping - I use both the pen and the mouse.
Matt

I'd suggest taking Lithium cells. I believe there are versions that can cope with severe cold. For example the Energizer e2 AA Lithium cells work down to -40C.
There's also the Lithium CRV3 which may work in the cold.

(Rechargeable cells don't really like the cold!)

Also, watch out for condensation when moving from cold to hot environments (preferably let the camera warm up slowly).

Hope that helps!
Matt

Just open it in Artizen and choose the tone mapping option. It will convert the single image to 32-bit then allow whichever tone mapping operator you want.

You are best off developing a RAW to 16-bit TIFF and working from there

Tone mapping is, I suppose, a more complex form of the "Shadows/Highlights" control that's available in Photoshop. It uses techniques to mimic the perceptual nature of the brain and even out the exposure.

Have fun!
Matt