Clarky,
It's not that there actually is a 32Gb SD-HC card available... it's that the specification for SD-HC allows up to 32Gb of NAND flash to be addressed. So, that's the absolute maximum possible (ever) under SD-HC.
Matt

All SD cards (and most NAND-flash based products) uses the concept of pages and blocks to address the memory inside the SD card. As such there is a limit to the number of address bits used to access that memory.

SD can copes with 2Gb.
SD-HC copes with 32Gb (they added another 4-bits to the address).

If memory technology begins to exceed 32Gb in the SD form factor, then there'll have to be another SD technology

So, you're limited to 32Gb with the K10D at least (because it's extremely unlikely - read impossible - that Pentax will do a firmware update for the K10D when that happens. In fact, I strongly suspect that the K10D firmware updates are complete and 1.3 is where it will stay... they'll be funnelling their programming, development, and testing skills into the new range of DSLRs).

Does that explain it?
Matt

Thanks for this Ben - very interesting.
Would agree with point #4... definitely

Matt

Check out these threads on PRA:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6185
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5214
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4822
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4422

(BTW, it does eat batteries!)
Have fun!
Matt

Yes - it's been there a while.

You'll need Pentax Remote Assistant as well as firmware 1.3 (can't remember off hand exactly which version introduced it)

Matt

Eric,
I think we're limited to what the BBS software provides.
I usually use the link on the top right side of the main forum page: "View posts since last visit", and then click on the little bookmark link to the left of the topic title (which takes you to the newest post you haven't read on that thread).

I do this in Firefox and Ctrl-click on them to open up each thread in a separate tab window.

HTH!
Matt

Mac,
The bodies that supported power zoom has two extra contacts underneath the mirror. In fact, these are the same two contacts you see in the K10D used for SDM power.

Bodies that supported power zoom are (IIRC) : Z1, Z1p, Z5, Z10, etc.
Check under http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/bodies/Z-PZ/index.html - you'll see the features listed under "Power Zoom Features".

IMHO, it wasn't much use... more of a gimmick
Matt

See the comment on page 1 from ChrisA - for C&N you might, but it looks like you don't for Pentax

Again, C&N front elements may be fragile, but you'll find there are those who have no dedicated filter on their Pentax SMC lenses
(Hint: the only lens that I have ever needed repairing was because the Hoya Pro-1 filter - read expensive - on it crunched the front of the lens and the shards nearly gouged out the front element :roll

Just my thoughts
Matt

Rob,
I used to use the Hoya Pro-1 filters for "protection". (Emphasis on "used"
What I found is that a small impact (even in a case, falling a few inches) could be enough to smash the filter... and the filter splinters into razor sharp shards.

Now that I have 100% Pentax SMC glass I don't use filters. SMC is reportedly very, very tough. (And I keep a hood on at all times so that can take the brunt of any accidental impact )

The only filters I use now are Lee 100mm Neutral Density Graduated filters (and the occasional polariser). (Used to use the Cokin P size until I needed 77mm filters!)

Matt

My tip of the morning...

Easiest and fastest way to get rid of an unsightly coloured item (the blue in the background) in Photoshop (or Elements) is this:

* Add a new layer
* Change the layer blend mode to "Color"
* Pick a soft brush, opacity probably around 50 - 75%
* Alt-click on the green nearby the object
* Carefully paint over the blue

This will quickly change the colour of the blue item to green
I would suggest repeatedly Alt-clicking to pick up colour so the painting isn't too uniform. But since you're only changing colour, the luminosity stays put leaving it real enough.

(It can be a bit more tricky if the object is actually brighter than the surroundings - you have to control the luminosity as well. But in this instance it looks like the blue and green are of a similar luminosity)


Matt