Ditto the above comment...

For the *ist-D I had to clean very frequently. Used Eclipse fluid, as well as dry & wet disposable brushes.

For the K10D I've only ever needed a rocket blower. Haven't yet had anything gunky enough to require a brush or fluid.
My usual action is - do the in-camera dust removal a couple of times and if that doesn't shift it then a blast with the rocket blower does the job. (The K10D has a special coating that is smoother than a normal sensor - allowing the dust to fall off. That's why you have to watch what fluids you use!)

HTH!
Matt

Better for the retailers, that's for sure

And SR in lens makes me queasy It's like being on a ship after a few pints

Also more to go wrong as well!
Matt

The 10-17 is a fisheye, not rectilinear like the 10-20.

So, at 10mm on the fisheye you have 180 degree angle of view - wider than the 10mm of the rectilinear.

The two distort in different ways - fisheyes bend straight lines but keep relative proportions (e.g. square is a square but curvy), whereas the super wide rectilinear keeps straight lines but distorts the relative proportions (so squares can become odd trapezoidal).

Horses for courses.... and it's probably not "widely" discussed because a fish-eye is something that's not to everyone's taste

(Have a look on Wikipedia and Google for info on fish-eyes)

Matt

That's an odd looking problem...
I would check out the following:
* Does it occur at all ISO ratings (might be worse at ISO1600)
* Does it still occur when you use RAW mode and process using Pentax Browser?

It's possible that there's a problem in the CCD transfer internally. I have seen card issues before, but they don't generally look so regular.


Matt

So sorry to hear about this Clarky
Matt

Chris,
Thanks for the correction... yes, it's when USB is plugged in (for which PRA is the only reason I'd use the USB on the K10D)
Matt

I've been having a little tinker with things...
(For Windows)

With a little effort I can make the Pentax Remote Assistant window much bigger
Here's a quick guide:
1. Run up PRA
2. Select "View / Separate Screen Display" so the image is unhooked
3. Download the little ZIP file from here (Application not source... unless you're interested!)
http://www.codeproject.com/tools/WindowScraper_Utility.asp
4. Run the "WinScraper.exe" file.
5. Drag the cross-hair onto the top bar "Screen: #1 K10D"
6. Now punch in a bigger width and height and click "Resize"
(You get a bigger window but the image is the same)
7. Drag the cross-hair onto the image itself
8. Repeat step 6 for the inner window.

So now I can get full screen display... just that the quality is terrible.

But it's a start for Windows

(Pentax could have made this window resizable which would've solved the problem nicely!!)

Have fun! (BTW, PRA seriously eats the K10D battery )

EDIT: If you do this without the screen separated you can adjust the dimensions of the main "PENTAX REMOTE Assistant" window. I set it to 1024 x 768 .... and it saved the size So, you only then have to adjust the inner window.. say to 800x600 (but that doesn't remember, alas!)

Matt

Pentax provided the Remote Capture software for the K10D... which goes part way to getting live view on the laptop. You just need to connect the USB cable and fire away.

The remote capture will not, AFAIK, display the last image full screen - which is a shame. I tried linking it up with Capture One Pro, but it still didn't do what I'd imagined...

I think the Canon protocol is known (if not documented). At the moment I don't think the Pentax protocol is supported in anything except Pentax's own software (at least on the PC).

There may be other options for Mac though...
Matt

Just Google'd:
http://www.kauserinternational.com/Photography/Capital/Model%20EF1.htm
(close, but not 100%)

http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CBY3

Shutter speed is (almost) completely irrelevant to flash photography - that's why there's no setting for speed It's all down to ISO and aperture.

My guess is:
* Slide over the white dome (you want incident metering)
* Set the ISO on the meter
* Set the ISO on the K10D (you want it fixed, not auto!)
* Hold the meter at the point you want to meter and fire the flash
* The meter will light up the f-stop to use.

To be honest, with digital it's often easier just to meter by trial and error - because you can see everything on the LCD! After a little practice you can normally get it right in a couple of shots.

(Check out my guide to digital flash... there's a few clues on there)
Matt

Must remember to take my industrial strength umbrella... looks like the pigs are flying again
Matt