I would suggest using the test chart on the wall, the camera on a tripod and at 45 degrees to the wall (so the camera is dead upright). That's the way one Samsung/Pentax service manual shows their setup for focus calibration.

(That is, rather than pointing down to a desk as in the link )

It's also a lot easier when working with lenses that have 1 or 2 meter minimum distances

Also - DO IT IN DAYLIGHT

You can get small errors when shooting under tungsten. In fact, with the K20D I found that using the focus chart in daylight and then slightly tuning in tungsten using portraiture (ie the 50mm/1.4 at f/1.4 on a subject's eye) would give the best overall results. (The K7 has colour temperature sensing linked to focus adjustment )

Takes a little fiddling around - but don't get too worked up about it... aim for a compromise that works for your kind of shooting style

Matt

John,
I'm sure Ed Hamrick's VueScan works on x64 - that should recognise even the ancient SCSI scanners
Matt

Nice shot Ken. Would have preferred a little less foreground OOF on the LHS.
But the Opteka looks good!
(Not going to do the LBA any good though )
Matt

Stefan,
Well, it's not really going to help you that much anyway
1/180 to 1/200 isn't even half a stop, and 1/180 to 1/250 is, what, half a stop?

For what you want to achieve, your best option is an ND filter (apart from another flash)

Matt

Stefan,
You can't get a higher sync speed
HSS is not a 'trick' - it's a necessity.

1/180s is the faster speed at which the leading and trailing curtains of the shutter are both open, exposing the whole of the sensor to the effect of the flash.

When the shutter speed is faster than 1/180s, the trailing curtain will start moving before the leading curtain has finished its travel. If the flash were to go off for such faster speeds then you'd only get a tiny bit of the frame exposed by flash - the rest would be black!

HSS works by 'peppering' the scene with light bursts so that the moving slit formed by the leading & trailing curtain exposes each slice of the sensor as it moves

The *ist-D could do Wireless HSS with the pop-up... but then it didn't have SR. IIRC, the current SR-equipped bodies can't do wireless HSS with the pop-up because of some power supply issues.

If you have TWO AF360/540 guns you can do wireless HSS

Matt

Richard, the 22" LP2275w says it's a PVA panel, whereas the LP2475w is S-IPS
Matt

Personally, I don't care what anyone uses to make great images

I've used Canon & Nikon gear, and have my own opinions of them (which aren't relevant in this thread). I also have my own reasons for using Pentax (again, which don't need to be stated).

However, when it comes to threads in this forum the title gives a big clue as to the primary, and almost singular purpose

If you want to talk general pros & cons of brands then the ephotozine forums are a much, much better place to post for that kind of discussion (they have a much bigger moderator team as well!)


It's probably worth pointing out that the moderators get nothing from moderating this forum, and that the intention is to keep this a Pentax User forum

As mentioned, ePhotozine forums are a fine "brand-insensitive" place to hang out if you want

Matt

Simon,
I had some success using the hyperfocal distance at f/8 - f/11 on a 35mm prime... but that was in a regular jet. Higher up the view was wonderful, but the haze was a problem (as was the double-skinned windows ).

I would have said the 17-70 is probably the best option (especially if you mean the Pentax DA17-70 - there won't be much between that and a 50mm prime at f/8 ).

Whether you'll get decent shots from the 55-300 is another matter... (will depend on atmospheric conditions, effectiveness of SR etc).

Have fun!!!
Matt

John, Dell have a couple of IPS panels. Just enter "IPS LCD" in the search box. The 2209WA pops up at £316.08 - which is pretty decent.

I have a LaCie 120 which has been very good when calibrated with Argyll+DispCalGUI+Spyder. The LaCie definitely needs to be used in subdued lighting, and has to date been a good match for printed material (i.e. when getting prints done from ProAM).
It hasn't been so good for web-based stuff as most people view images at a much brighter level. The iMac has been better for seeing shadow detail (again calibrated, but left at native white point).

HTH!
Matt

The FA80-320 I had was sharp, even at the long end
There are a few things to bear in mind:

1. Contrast can be low - particularly if the day is hazy. This is easily seen in the histogram, and quickly corrected in PS.

2. There is a definite possibility of camera shake. If you're using SR, then ensure that the "hand" icon in the viewfinder is lit before finally pressing the shutter

3. If you are having problems with near items at the long end, then you may need to adjust the focus in the camera body (K20D, K7). For that test you can use a focus aid chart. Hint: rather than putting the chart at 45 degrees sloping backwards, just pin the chart to the wall, and use a tripod a the same height, but 45 degrees into the wall (i.e. viewing from the side of the chart). This is the way the Pentax service manual shows

4. If you are having problems with far away things, then the infinity setting on the FA80-320 may be slightly out (it was on mine!). This link shows the disassembly - you need to get to this step where the little metal clamps are seen. You loose all three, and adjust for infinity by twisting the extended barrel slightly (you'll need a nice clear day, and an object on the horizon). When happy, just re-tighten the screws and reassemble.
(Usual disclaimers apply )

I found the 80-320 to be an admirable performer, and that the newer DA55-300 is only slightly sharper than the one I had.

Hope that helps!
Matt