Tuning a lens
Posted 16/05/2010 - 08:17
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I don't think you can have the lens tuned, although if you can I expect it would cost almost as much as the lens!
I presume you have already tuned your camera's AF for this lens?
I presume you have already tuned your camera's AF for this lens?
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Posted 16/05/2010 - 09:25
Link
Hi Tim,
Been doing a bit of reading up on the subject and came across all the articles about collimation which made me start to wonder about tuning the lens. link
I have been playing with the auto focus adjustment on the K200D using Debug Mode, in fact I've spent the morning in the workshop making a permanent DOF scale (45deg target) which will mount on a tripod and make it easier to use with lenses of different focal lengths.
Thanks for the feedback
Greg
Been doing a bit of reading up on the subject and came across all the articles about collimation which made me start to wonder about tuning the lens. link
I have been playing with the auto focus adjustment on the K200D using Debug Mode, in fact I've spent the morning in the workshop making a permanent DOF scale (45deg target) which will mount on a tripod and make it easier to use with lenses of different focal lengths.
Thanks for the feedback
Greg
Posted 16/05/2010 - 15:10
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Thks Peter, I've tried those charts but they are very flimsy and unstable.
Greg
Greg
Posted 16/05/2010 - 15:21
Link
You could print it all out, and then carefully (as flat as you can, without wrinkles) paste it on a thin sheet of cardboard, and then it should probably work out ...
I had printed out focus-charts too, and then kept them as flat as I could on a table, and used a tripod to get a 45 degrees line of sight from the camera to the chart ...
Focus testing can be tedious, so do keep in mind stuff like subject-distance, aperture and what DOF you get for the combination ...
I had printed out focus-charts too, and then kept them as flat as I could on a table, and used a tripod to get a 45 degrees line of sight from the camera to the chart ...
Focus testing can be tedious, so do keep in mind stuff like subject-distance, aperture and what DOF you get for the combination ...
regards,
rkt
rkt
Posted 16/05/2010 - 16:57
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Posted 16/05/2010 - 18:40
Link
My 80-320's sharpness seems ok at the short-end but struggles beyond 280 or so, but I thought this was due to my lack of experience (not using monopods/tripods etc) with 'long' lenses. If there is a fix I would be interested to hear more!
I could ramp up the asa to 1600 or the shutter speed to 1000th but I can't do this when taking pics of propeller driven aircraft. Someone link recently posted some cracking shots on FLICKR using the 300 digital prime but the cost is out of reach to many.
My 80-320 stuff ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/28204187@N08/sets/72157622639681232/ )
I could ramp up the asa to 1600 or the shutter speed to 1000th but I can't do this when taking pics of propeller driven aircraft. Someone link recently posted some cracking shots on FLICKR using the 300 digital prime but the cost is out of reach to many.
My 80-320 stuff ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/28204187@N08/sets/72157622639681232/ )
Posted 17/05/2010 - 07:06
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I suspect you'll find that it simply isn't that sharp at the end.
However... eliminate shake as a cause first, as I think you might be surprised how much it affects the end result.
Bret
However... eliminate shake as a cause first, as I think you might be surprised how much it affects the end result.
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Posted 17/05/2010 - 09:44
Link
The FA80-320 I had was sharp, even at the long end
There are a few things to bear in mind:
1. Contrast can be low - particularly if the day is hazy. This is easily seen in the histogram, and quickly corrected in PS.
2. There is a definite possibility of camera shake. If you're using SR, then ensure that the "hand" icon in the viewfinder is lit before finally pressing the shutter
3. If you are having problems with near items at the long end, then you may need to adjust the focus in the camera body (K20D, K7). For that test you can use a focus aid chart. Hint: rather than putting the chart at 45 degrees sloping backwards, just pin the chart to the wall, and use a tripod a the same height, but 45 degrees into the wall (i.e. viewing from the side of the chart). This is the way the Pentax service manual shows
4. If you are having problems with far away things, then the infinity setting on the FA80-320 may be slightly out (it was on mine!). This link shows the disassembly - you need to get to this step where the little metal clamps are seen. You loose all three, and adjust for infinity by twisting the extended barrel slightly (you'll need a nice clear day, and an object on the horizon). When happy, just re-tighten the screws and reassemble.
(Usual disclaimers apply )
I found the 80-320 to be an admirable performer, and that the newer DA55-300 is only slightly sharper than the one I had.
Hope that helps!
Matt
There are a few things to bear in mind:
1. Contrast can be low - particularly if the day is hazy. This is easily seen in the histogram, and quickly corrected in PS.
2. There is a definite possibility of camera shake. If you're using SR, then ensure that the "hand" icon in the viewfinder is lit before finally pressing the shutter
3. If you are having problems with near items at the long end, then you may need to adjust the focus in the camera body (K20D, K7). For that test you can use a focus aid chart. Hint: rather than putting the chart at 45 degrees sloping backwards, just pin the chart to the wall, and use a tripod a the same height, but 45 degrees into the wall (i.e. viewing from the side of the chart). This is the way the Pentax service manual shows
4. If you are having problems with far away things, then the infinity setting on the FA80-320 may be slightly out (it was on mine!). This link shows the disassembly - you need to get to this step where the little metal clamps are seen. You loose all three, and adjust for infinity by twisting the extended barrel slightly (you'll need a nice clear day, and an object on the horizon). When happy, just re-tighten the screws and reassemble.
(Usual disclaimers apply )
I found the 80-320 to be an admirable performer, and that the newer DA55-300 is only slightly sharper than the one I had.
Hope that helps!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 17/05/2010 - 15:07
Link
Thanks Matt,
Those picture are a most helpful, I'll do some proper sharpness tests at 320mm this coming weekend.
Greg
Those picture are a most helpful, I'll do some proper sharpness tests at 320mm this coming weekend.
Greg
Posted 17/05/2010 - 19:22
Link
Greg - I'll post a shot from your part of the world taken in the Kruger, near Sabi Sands, which was done with my K10 and the FA 80-320 @ 320mm, F11, 1/500, ISO 400 and hand held. Good at 50%.
Took 3 in total - next shot not as good - target fairly small for the AF, even at narrowest setting.
HTH
Steve
Took 3 in total - next shot not as good - target fairly small for the AF, even at narrowest setting.
HTH
Steve
In the Pack - Gripped K5 (SE),K7 & K20, Gripped MZ-S(SE)& MZ-S,DA10-17, DA12-24, DA14, DA*16-50, 50-135, 60-250 & 300mm; FA31mm/43mm/77mm Ltds; Sigma 8-16, 135-400 & 150-500
Half Backs: K10+BG,DA16-45, DA50-200
Backs: LXs,Super As and lots of A, M & K lenses
Impact Subs: 28mm Shift, K 135-600 (the Banahan of Pentax zooms ), 400-600 Reflex
Half Backs: K10+BG,DA16-45, DA50-200
Backs: LXs,Super As and lots of A, M & K lenses
Impact Subs: 28mm Shift, K 135-600 (the Banahan of Pentax zooms ), 400-600 Reflex
Posted 17/05/2010 - 19:32
Link
Please do.
Greg
Greg
Posted 17/05/2010 - 20:00
Link
Done - should be able to see it now in Gallery - title is SA Giant Heron & sole search tag is FA80-320mm
Steve
Steve
In the Pack - Gripped K5 (SE),K7 & K20, Gripped MZ-S(SE)& MZ-S,DA10-17, DA12-24, DA14, DA*16-50, 50-135, 60-250 & 300mm; FA31mm/43mm/77mm Ltds; Sigma 8-16, 135-400 & 150-500
Half Backs: K10+BG,DA16-45, DA50-200
Backs: LXs,Super As and lots of A, M & K lenses
Impact Subs: 28mm Shift, K 135-600 (the Banahan of Pentax zooms ), 400-600 Reflex
Half Backs: K10+BG,DA16-45, DA50-200
Backs: LXs,Super As and lots of A, M & K lenses
Impact Subs: 28mm Shift, K 135-600 (the Banahan of Pentax zooms ), 400-600 Reflex
Posted 17/05/2010 - 20:51
Link
Thanks Steve,
They are beautiful birds and not common.
To help me get the correct perspective, how far away was the bird and did you use RAW format, also did you do any PP to the picture.
Please don't misunderstand me and I am probably being pernickety but the photo is showing exactly the same characteristics as my lens, which prompted me to post my original question.
The lack of contrast is easily fixed but I find it to be very soft and lacking in detail, see the grass, I would have liked it to be much more clearly defined. maybe I'm expecting too much from the lens.
Are you satisfied with it's performance?
Greg
They are beautiful birds and not common.
To help me get the correct perspective, how far away was the bird and did you use RAW format, also did you do any PP to the picture.
Please don't misunderstand me and I am probably being pernickety but the photo is showing exactly the same characteristics as my lens, which prompted me to post my original question.
The lack of contrast is easily fixed but I find it to be very soft and lacking in detail, see the grass, I would have liked it to be much more clearly defined. maybe I'm expecting too much from the lens.
Are you satisfied with it's performance?
Greg
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392 posts
17 years
Pretoria,
South Africa
For interest, is it possible to have a lens tuned or adjusted for optimal sharpness, I'm thinking in particular about my Pentax 80-320mm f4.5 zoom. I know there are better zooms available but I've got this one.
I've only used prime telephoto lenses and am a disappointed with the zoom's resolution and would like to get the best out of it. I don't expect prime sharpness.
Greg