I use "iDoF Calc" off the App Store - it includes hyperfocal distance as well (which is handy).

I'm not 100% sure that the Pentax K interface 'knows' the distance. I have a feeling that there is no suitable info (and even if there was it would probably be very granular).

Matt

Graham,
For all difficult AF situations I would suggest the following setup (if you haven't got it already!):

* Disable the AF-on-half-press in the custom options
* Use the "AF" button on the back to do a manually triggered AF

This helps in very low light and/or low contrast situations, as well as situations where timing is everything.

Simply estimate where the subject is going to be, find an item that's at the same distance (but has some decent contrast) - point the camera at that and hit the AF button to get a lock.

Now, when you hit the shutter (because the bird has just come into view) it will occur immediately without any focus-hunting.

Hope that helps!
Matt

...and then there's DVI as well
Matt

Watch out!!

I believe the HDMI-to-VGA cables are for taking VGA output and connecting to an HDMI TV

You'd want the other way around: to take an HDMI output and drive into a VGA monitor. If you can find this then it'll work with DVD player as well.

Some Google'd threads:
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13680
Another thread mentioned using an Xbox 360 with a VGA cable to play DVDs...

Matt

There are devices like this available. However, they are generally HDMI output.

There may be a VGA output device somewhere...
...if I turn anything up then I'll post a link

Matt

Also, don't forget that screens are transmissive (ie emit light) while print is reflective - this means that displays will always appear brighter than print.

Added to that, that most screens have their backlights turned up waaaaay too high. For print-matching the screen has to be very, very dim and your ambient lighting almost non-existent! (Shockingly so if you've been used to normal office or home conditions )

In general, I have found that using a hardware calibration device on the screen is essential (not that expensive: e.g. Pantone Huey entry level, but with the Argyll CMS + dispcal GUI software instead).

With modern photo printers, if you are using the manufacturer's inks, and the recommended settings for the paper you are using then the results are usually pretty close

Hope that helps!
Matt

I would've expected sharper - but I can't immediately tell if it's out of focus, or suffering from a touch of motion blur.

Then again, at f/22 you may start to get diffraction effects and a loss of sharpness. Even at f/22 the depth of field can be painfully small when using macro + extensions

Matt

I would try the following setups:

All tests with the camera in M mode, f/5.6, 1/60s, ISO400.

1. Take a test shot without any flash to see how dark the image is without flash (hopefully dark, but not absolutely pitch black. If it's really black, then increase the ISO to 800 or 1600).

2. No AF540, just pop-up flash
a. With the flash mode set to 'normal'
b. With the flash mode set to 'wireless', and the pop-up set as master
c. With the flash mode set to 'wireless', and the pop-up set as controller

3. With the AF540 mounted on the hotshoe

4. With the AF540 firing into the frame from one side at 45 degrees. Because of the sheer power of the AF540, make sure it's a couple of metres away from the subject. (I suggest you put a soft toy or something to focus on and to check for shadows).
a. With the popup flash set to master (you should see the shadows)
b. With the popup flash set to controller (you should see only the shadow from the AF540)


Do also make sure that the custom function 'Release when charging' is off (so the shutter will definitely not fire when the pop-up is still charging). Sorry, I can't remember the exact term!

Let us know a rough idea of the results

Matt

It might help if you updated your profile to show where you are
There's usually someone nearby who can help!
Matt