Adam,
Looks like you have the AF540 set to "SL 2" (i.e. dumb slave flash). Looks like it's picking up the pre-flash and triggering.

Double check that the Slave setting is on "SL 1" (see p54 of the manual)

If that's all set ok, then I would suggest trying another flash gun

Matt

Ok Doug Got the tube today - it's all fine

I think there was a misunderstanding about using the aperture...
Let me give a complete guide:

1. Manual tubes, no linkage, no contacts. You have to turn the aperture on the lens to wide open to focus, and manually turn the aperture on the lens down for metering and taking the shot.

2. Auto-tubes with linkage, no contacts. You have to set your required aperture on the lens (ie not on the camera body). While using the viewfinder the lens remains wide open so you can focus and compose. Use "M" on the camera, and press the Green button to perform stop-down-metering - you'll see the viewfinder go darker, and an appropriate exposure taken. Because the tubes have the linkage, when you hit the shutter the camera will close down the aperture on the lens and all will be fine.

3. Auto-tubes with linkage and contacts. Here, you can just use the aperture dial on the camera as before! You leave the lens on the "A" setting, or you can use lenses that don't have an aperture ring (like the DA17-70 etc). The camera can control everything because it 'knows' what the lens is.


So, Doug, you have option (2). You should set the Nokton to an aperture other than A (e.g. f/, and when you hit the Green button then the lens should stop down and meter.

This behaviour is exactly the same as if you have NO tube, but with the lens on an aperture other than "A".

Let us know if that works now that it's been explained!!

Matt

Some more info...

The 16-45 is also a cracking good lens

However, the bokeh on the 17-70 is in another league, IMHO. In fact, I'd go as far to say that the 17-70 is 'up there' with the 50/1.4 It's still sharp wide open at f/4, and it's much more versatile - I've used it in low-light drama situations where I would've used the 50mm before.

That said, the 16-45 has a more 'whacky' wide angle... and it's screw drive, so it'll work on anything.


But I'd still say the 21mm prime would have a place for travelling really small and light (I have the 35/2 which is also stunning - most especially for indoor portraiture on the K7... but the 17-70 has produced better landscape results for me )

Here are some 17-70 shots:
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/1372315
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/1327051 (I have this in 18x12" on my wall - it's bitingly sharp)
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/1245809
http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/1141820

It's not going to help your LBA though! LOL!
Matt

Things to check:

1) Does the HDD spin up? Put it to your ear as you power it up and you should hear a high pitch soft noise as the drive spins up.

2) Do you hear any clunking? If the drive is physically damaged you usually hear a regular clicking/clunking sound as the HDD tries to sort itself out. Often they will try for a few minutes then shut down.

3) If you hear NOTHING from the drive, then you may find the USB connector is physically damaged. If you have a 5VDC PSU (check and double check that it's the right spec and polarity first!!!!) then you can try plugging that in. Note, however, that some USB drives won't spin up until they see USB signals - even if powered.

4) Failing all that, it's possible that you can dismantle the HDD casing, extract the drive, and use one of the eBay-available USB-to-SATA/IDE drive adapter cables to rescue the drive... or PC-World do sell replacement HDD-USB cases (but it does depend on the age of the HDD. If it's an IDE drive you may have difficulty getting the correct case)

Matt

I'd say the DA17-70 is a lovely lens for walkabout.

Super, super sharp - very nearly as sharp as the primes I have. Absolutely lovely bokeh.

I would have liked it slightly smaller and lighter, but it's definitely a belter of a lens Oh, and it's SDM only.

It's my 'one-lens' walkabout lens

(Thought I saw a S/H one going for a lot less than new..., and maybe SRS have one as well)

Matt

Pixelmator is nice... For graphics. It struggled a bit on large photos for me though. The feature set is nice, but not 'up there' for me yet

I'd definitely recommend PSE with some of the free/cheap scripting addons that expose more of the PS features. I consistently find PS & PSE the fastest for filter and adjustment previewing.
Plus the fact there's a glut of PS tutorials that almost directly map over.

But that's all IMHO


Re: hackintosh... It is interesting that the Apple EULA specifically states for installation on an "Apple labelled" computer - not Apple manufactured, or sold. And it's also interesting that the Mac OS X box includes Apple stickers Now, illegally downloading or installing on multiple computers from one license is out - but what about a pukkah bought copy? I don't know
....probably best not to hijack this thread though

Matt

Bluebells are a nightmare to get sorted
I'm guessing their colour seems to sit right on the edge of the gamut.

Apart from John's comments...

I presume that the bluebell shots appear the same in Photoshop?
If not, then you have a display calibration issue - I'd guess you're using the Huey or Spyder software?? DispcalGui & Argyll give much better control, and allow better 'native' setups that most other calibration software.

If it's just the Epson print preview that's different then do check you have the correct association with the profile set in the Windows display driver (Display Settings / Advanced / Color Management). Probably a good idea to remove any older profiles from there are well and ensure the current profile is set as default (not all colour management tools link this in )

Hope that helps!
Matt

Ditto Clarky's comment
It is a limited zoom range, but is very sharp, and the pseudo-macro facility is quite useful. I had one for a while, but the range was limiting for me
Matt

You can easily check whether the stop down linkage is working

Look at the front element when you do the green button - compare at f/11 and f/4. (Also the exposure should change.)

There is always a reason for extension tubes, even with a macro lens (Extensions + Macro Lens = incredible close ups).

...in fact, you can always reverse an old lens as well for super macro...

Matt

If the extension tubes have the electrical contacts on each tube then you can use the lens in "A", and adjust aperture from the body.

If the extension tube has no electrical contacts then you'll have to do stop-down metering - by setting the aperture manually on the lens. By default the body will show "F--" to warn you. There's a custom option to allow manual aperture selection, and then the "F--" won't show

If the extension tube has a mechanical 'finger' that slides then it's called "auto" extension tubes - you can select the aperture and use the Green button in "M" mode to perform automatic stop down and meter on the K20D & K7.

So, summary - there are FOUR types of extension tubes as far as I know:

1. Manual. No electrical contacts, no 'finger' linkage

2. Auto with no electrical contacts. Includes the 'finger' linkage to control the aperture blades on the lens.

3. Auto with electrical contacts (also includes the 'finger' linkage)

4. Auto with electrical contacts including the power zoom connections (which may, or may not work with SDM lenses).

Hope that helps!
Matt