Hint: BeyondCompare from Scooter Software is just about the best directory/file sync tool Just wish there was a Mac version as good (though GoodSync isn't that bad).
HTH!
Matt

Just found out...

The external flash gun takes priority (at least on AF360).

i.e. Whatever the camera menu is set to, the pop-up flash follows the mode of a wired AF360. When the external flash is powered off, the camera menu then applies to the pop-up flash.


Just to also reiterate here, that the flash compensation on the camera menu sets the base compensation. The external flash compensation is applied to that base.
e.g. camera -1, flash 0 = -1 overall
e.g. camera -1, flash +1 = 0 overall

The pop-up flash is set to the camera compensation, so you can use camera -1, external flash +1 to get an overall 0Ev flash but the pop-up reduced by 1Ev. (hope that makes sense! )

Matt

Mike - you could always lend me your K5 and see if it improves things


I often go through phases like that. Sometimes it's good to set yourself a little project - something to work towards

Matt

I'm with Aaduki - they've always been most helpful. Probably worth ringing them
Matt

...I wonder if you can trigger the pop-up with rear-curtain and a wired slave in leading curtain (or vice-vera)?

Might be interesting!

AFAIK, for external units the rear curtain sync setting is set on the flash!

So, if you are trying to set it using the menu on the camera it won't work
The AF360/AF540 have a slide switch that chooses rear curtain (it basically chooses which edge of the trigger to fire on).

So, if your external flash doesn't support Rear Curtain Sync, then I'm afraid you won't be able to do it!

HTH!
Matt

Colin,
Looking at that lighting you should be starting at ISO800 and working even up towards ISO1600 or 2500 (not ISO200 - that's really, really optimistic!!). You can then work at f/4 or f/5.6 with out any problems and get a reasonable shutter speed for the movement.

You should also be using fully M, without the -1Ev exposure bias.

It takes practise, but you should be able to pretty much guess the lighting change by eye.

Shoot RAW as well - that will give you an extra couple of stops latitude to play with afterwards But remember to err on the side of underexposure - you don't want to blow out the faces.

Given the uneven lighting you'll need plenty of "Fill" recovery in the RAW development process.

I'd suggest practising at home until it becomes second nature

Matt

An LCD with IPS (In Plane Switching)... there are some cost effective Dell displays that aren't bad apparently

Matt

Interesting link about the Diagonal Method

I found that Michael Freeman's "The Photographer's Eye" was very helpful indeed. It's good to try and do some self-analysis - as to why an image might be acceptable to you - but at the end of the day you need to teach yourself to actually "see" (or visualise) the end result.

Just take lots and lots and lots of images
Matt

Shame
They were always very helpful indeed.
Matt