MattMatic

Joined: 2nd July 2002

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MattMatic
Hi Colin,
The jury is still out with LR3. I'm using LR3 at the moment, but need to have a hack at some of the show stuff I did

EDIT: LR3 seems to have very good noise reduction. It's a bit of "swings-and-roundabouts" with SPDS3Pro vs LR3, but reprocessing some ISO2000 and ISO1600 shots looks very promising indeed. So, to answer your question - the answer is yes! If you expose the image correctly (i.e. manually) you should be able to get an excellent image out of the K7 and LR3.

Will see if I can dig out a couple of images that I'd be allowed to link to
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on F2.8 lens recomendations at 07/12/2010 - 14:33

MattMatic
Thanks for the link Tim I couldn't find when the changeover was myself! (Hence the rather vague "for quite some time" :lol

Comment by MattMatic posted on Creative Contrast at 07/12/2010 - 14:32

MattMatic
Actually I find that the default (full brightness) on an iMac and MBP is really too bright for photographic work. I have my MBP15 on 50% brightness and profiled & calibrated to that.

I'm just going through the test pages here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

BTW, Sean Duggan is excellent! He did a collaboration with Katrin Eismann - http://www.creativedigitaldarkroom.com/
Highly recommended (and that creative contrast is in the book

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Creative Contrast at 07/12/2010 - 11:32

MattMatic
Quote:
It's the difference between the default gamma settings on Mac and Windows.
That's history
Mac is 2.2 and has been for quite some time!
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Creative Contrast at 07/12/2010 - 11:23

MattMatic
Quote:
wish i could get to use f4 at indoor shows
I shoot between ISO1600 and ISO2500 on the K7
Silkypix cleans them up very nicely indeed - and I print at 18"x12". Wish I could show you some
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on F2.8 lens recomendations at 07/12/2010 - 10:35

MattMatic
Quote:
found that in the low and changing light it did not perform as well
You should be using fully manual in show conditions

When there is a substantial amount of blackness around the subject you MUST tell the camera what to do (or it will blow out the very subject you want to catch).

My preference is to use focus-on-demand, fully M, and either the DA*50-135 (but shooting around f/4), and the DA17-70 (which is f/4 anyway).


Perhaps an image sample or two would help make a recommendation (and perhaps save you a few quid and hassle too )

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on F2.8 lens recomendations at 07/12/2010 - 08:59

MattMatic
...find the text very hard to read, especially the web address
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on concept piece at 03/12/2010 - 16:35

MattMatic
I gave up on the second one... too slow...

Comment by MattMatic posted on Opinion wanted on 2 website designs at 01/12/2010 - 13:19

MattMatic
Manual (what there is): www.icorpandtumax.com/uploadfiles/file_49101577a037c.pdf

There seem to be other models available on eBay as well...

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on TTL problem with HSM lenses. at 23/11/2010 - 11:01

MattMatic
Mhuni,
Even the Cokin Z-Pro filters I have have slight colour casts
Lee are probably the only ones that have next to none, or none - but you definitely pay for it!

A slight magenta cast is no big deal and easily neutralised in Photoshop

It would definitely be a shame to pay out for lovely Lee NDgrad filters and find that they're not actually NDgrad but adjustable grad on a smaller lens

Matt

PS. Apart from straight ND, I find I'm using grads less and less. The dynamic range of the K7 helps, and where that's not enough two or three shots work just as well - gluing them back together in PP.

Comment by MattMatic posted on Pentax 15mm Limited and square filter systems at 19/11/2010 - 13:28

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