Advanced Camera Services might sell you what you need.

Beware the focussing though. ACS set the sensor back a bit to correct the focus point for IR light.

I'm still the teenager side of 60 . . . until October 2009

Just to add to the blokey type remarks (sorry ladies), I do still chase women . . . but I can't remember why.

Just kidding, I love my wife very dearly. Nobody else cuts my toast soldiers like she does.

Just to add to iceblinker's post, which is the right procedure to show dust, once you've taken your test shot you can play around with exposure, brightness, contrast in post processing to see the spots more clearly.

So they're not selling Pentax any more, yet they are still paying for advertising on a Pentax user site ? ? ? ?

I can't wait for the closing down sale, they do stock Lowepro bags and other useful stuff.

The FA50mm 1:1.7 was produced between 1991 - 2004.

I have a couple of Lowepro top loaders. TLZ1 & 2 I think, or maybe TLZ2 & 3. One of them, if not both, will take the K20D + grip + 50-135mm. If you can wait until I get home after 18th feb I can double check and let you know. Neither of them has the AW cover though.

They have shoulder straps but can also be fitted to a belt.

Does that mean the end of 'Police, Camera, Action' and other similar TV shows. I doubt it.

The eyes don't have it any more Martin.

Ordinarily I'd never have sold my SMCP-A 135mm but I bought the FA version from a forum member and I don't need both. The A135 is a cracking lens, one of the best.

Truth is, I just have far too many lenses that I don't use and its time somebody else enjoyed them.

Shameless bump: Just under 2 days to go, have a look (link in OP).

The AF160 flashes have a GN of only 16 and are a bit underpowered for studio work. They would make a good secondary light for illuminating backgrounds.

The most useful use I've seen them put to is Clarky's dual light macro rig.

They'd also make a good replacement for a faulty onboard flash, much cheaper than a repair job.

The dust will usually get on to your sensor in one of three ways.

1: Dusty environment during lens changes.
2: Dust already inside the lenses that you are using.
3: Dust already inside the camera.

Remedy for 1: There is none except move to a less dusty area when you want to change lenses. When you do, always keep the open body facing down to prevent falling debris from getting in.

Remedy for 2: Several really. The most expensive remedy is to always buy new lenses, but that is often not an option.
Before use, thoroughly clean, as best you can, any used lenses you might aquire. Use a Rocket blower on both ends of the lens, clean the body of the lens, and vaccum the body end to remove any loose dust, avoiding contact with the rear element.

Remedy for 3: Thorougly clean the inside of the mirror box with a Rocket blower and an Arctic Butterfly or similar with the mirror both raised and lowered. Raise the mirror and carefully vacuum if necessary but don't let the nozzle touch anything.

I've used the vacuum technique on old dirty film cameras. Use duct tape to secure a short length of a suitably sized silicon tube to the nozzle to get inside the mirror box, but again, don't let it touch anything. With care, you can even get up inside the prism to remove stubborn dust.

NOTE: If you do decide to use a vacuum on lens or body, make absolutely sure you are in a dust free environment. If not, the vacuum will simply draw dirty air into your camera. Ensure the vacuum cleaner's exhaust is not in the near vicinity, place it behind a door to the room you are working in if possible.