And why wouldn't he make the frames the same size? He's not showing the difference in sensor size actually, he's demonstrating the effect of one lens on the two systems.

This is a video presentation so no need to use different sized frames.

If a customer wants a 10" x 8" print, it'll be a 10" x 8" print irrespective of what sensor it was shot on.

This video shows the difference when a lens is used on a full frame camera, then an APS-C cropped sensor camera.

To me, the difference is quite startling when you actually see it in the flesh, as it were.

Beware: Canon kit is used for this demonstration, but I don't hold that against them.

Quite apart from needing more light, I think you should look at using a different lens. 50mm is very close for shots of live & jittery insects. 50mm is great for static objects and flowers etc., but not butterflies.

Consider a minimum of 90mm focal length for this type of work. The SMC-P D-FA 100mm lens is very good, as are some Sigma/Tamron lenses. I'd recommend the Sigma 180mm EX DG lens for what you are doing, but it's not cheap.

For my macro work I mostly use the AF160FC ring flash, but it's broken at the moment and on it's way to the Pentax flash hospital to be mended.

Because you can?

IR photography has a fair few fans and to be able to take IR photo's and have a decent view through the viewfinder for focussing is a huge benefit.

I would see that as a mandatory requirement in all DSLR's in the future.

Now that the world knows that a problem can exist, I wouldn't buy any DSLR that did not have this capability.

It's not a feature, it's as much a 'must have' as strap lugs and tripod mount for me.

AFAIK the noise reduction system takes account of measured sensor noise.

That is, when an image is taken, a second 'dark frame' exposure is taken straight away. This is then subtracted from the first exposure to remove this measured/recorded noise.

It would be possible to take one dark frame exposure, then subtract that from all further exposures, having already turned off the in-camera noise reduction.

I didn't check the lake, but you are right, the far end is horizontal. Perhaps the house is collapsing, slowly . . . . .

I have one that has suffered the same problem. It does seem to be common.

The wheelbarrow shot is excellent.

#1 needs a bit of straightening, the roof line isn't quite horizontal.

Your sensor needs cleaning. There are a substantial number of blobs in the sky of #1.

Stefan + Dougf8, he has a KM, not a Kx. At least that's what he said in his original post.

Does your Km have the latest formware version 1.11, where they "increased stability of writing to some SDHC cards"

Version 1.11 is available from here.

To check, turn your camera off, press and hold the menu key, turn on the camera. The current version will be displayed on the rear screen.