For my DSLR I use a Kata strap. The model I have seems to have been discontinued but this one is very similar:

http://www.kata-bags.com/camera-strap-pl-camera-strap

Mine is extremely comfortable and well made. The neoprene part can be removed to save space or to get it out of the way. The clips can be used to attach the camera to the straps of a compatible backpack so that the weight is on your shoulders instead of neck (which is great). The clips are proper, strong ones, not the tiny, flimsy ones you find on the vast majority of detachable camera straps.

Lots of barrel distortion at 16mm and nasty at the edges too, even stopped down. Apart from that it looks good. I'm not sure I'd pay the extra over the 18-135 though, for those extra 2mm if it's not great at that setting.

This is a Spanish film I remember seeing adverts for. The camera looks like an all-black K-series of some kind.

http://frikarte.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Cabecera-Tengo-ganas-de-ti-Frikar...

I haven't looked at the link because I don't need a paper to tell me which lenses I can use on my DSLR. I've had zero problems using wide-angle lenses on digital, or any other old film lenses for that matter. Some are better than others, same as modern designed-for-digital lenses, but they have to be checked on a one-by-one basis.

I'm glad someone bought this as I've been resisting since I first saw it. I don't need another 50/1.4.

I use the DA 35mm macro for these. I'd take a lot longer with extension tubes and a manual lens.

The strip of negative goes into a Lomo Digitaliza to keep it (fairly) flat, that goes into a shoe-box I cut up to hold the digitaliza. Camera goes on one side on a tripod and on the other are several layers of translucent plastic to diffuse the light from the flash on the other side. The flash is triggered wirelessly with a cheap transmitter. That setup allows me to use ISO 100, 1/160s and f/11ish.

Here are a couple more from the same roll.


IMGP0921a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP0919a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr

Thanks.

Colour slides should be easy, though I don't have any to try. Colour negative is hard because of the extra orange layer, this means that the colours are way off when you invert them. I've tried to compensate for this both in-camera and with software but I've never been successful. I still use my V500 for colour.

I started "scanning" my B&W negatives last year with my K200D instead of my Epson V500 as I found it produced much higher resolution scans. Now I've got a K3 and it's even better for this purpose - the far superior AF makes things easier but the biggest difference is the K3's user modes. I set up the U3 mode to shoot in M mode at ISO 100, RAW, with a negative image in B&W. This way the jpeg straight from the camera gives me a much better idea of how the photo will come out. Especially with exposure as judging correct exposure by seeing a negative image is tough.

With a little cropping or more careful framing I could even use the straight-out-of-camera jpegs. It's a great step forward for using a DSLR for this purpose.

Here are my first few results - I used Agfa APX 100 film in a P30N while I was on holiday in Germany last summer.


IMGP0881a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP0885a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP0884a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP0887a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP0893a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr

Wow, very good indeed.

That's a very good idea. I recently received my first ever 3D-printed products - a set of adapters to use 135 format film in a 120 format camera. They seem solid enough, though I haven't used them yet.

3D printing has considerable potential for the manufacture of spare parts for cameras, especially the older mechanical ones.

I also wouldn't mind buying a few of these (seriously), I have three batteries for my K3. If you make some for sale, please let me know.