All Forum Comments
Comment by JohnX posted on Pentax camera choice at 02/01/2012 - 09:41
RAW+
RAW is my storage/backup medium; JPEG is for now.
Life's much too short; it's why I always had my film processed and printed for me, warts and all, rather than me spending hours/days/months in a darkroom.
Everyone to their own
RAW is my storage/backup medium; JPEG is for now.
Life's much too short; it's why I always had my film processed and printed for me, warts and all, rather than me spending hours/days/months in a darkroom.
Everyone to their own
Comment by JohnX posted on RAW or JPG shootout (handbags at dawn) at 02/01/2012 - 09:17
I'm wondering if the lenses really are K mount and not M42 with K adapter? Only explanation I can think of to explain '..the whole lens rotates..'
Comment by JohnX posted on Difficulty fitting old lens to Pentax K-X at 01/01/2012 - 17:09
One of our former members, Richard Day, suggested this method;
"I don't like test charts either, they have always given me misleading results.
I setup using a near infinity subject like a car number plate and working in 5 unit steps from -10 to +10, I review the results and work around the best in 1 unit steps. I always recheck the AF from both directions to ascertain there is minimal backlash.
if doing it for a zoom lens I check at the wide, mid and long ends.
I then repeat the above for a mid distance and then a near distance (approx 2m).
I generally find that-the results are pretty close and adopt a nominal best setting, critical focus is fairly easy to see as the text usually becomes very dense and sharp. When OOF, the text tends to loose contrast and small halos appear around the edges. I usually review my results on the rear screen at xll setting (which is approx 1:1 on a K20D)
When I check my setting at macro distances, i.e. the closest focus point, using a test chart, I usually find that there is more DOF behind the focus point than in front (but the focus point is sharp), if I set for equal balance, I find critical focus on most objects at further distances become more OOF as you approach distance/infinity objects.
I’ve heard it stated by ex-Pentax engineers, that Pentax lenses are designed to perform in this manner as well as many others.
Anyway, it works for me! I find that most of my lenses require quite minimal adjustments, but it does make a difference.
As a footnote, I would never buy a camera now that didn't have individual AF micro adjustments."
If you search the forums you'll find this has come up for discussion/debate many times
"I don't like test charts either, they have always given me misleading results.
I setup using a near infinity subject like a car number plate and working in 5 unit steps from -10 to +10, I review the results and work around the best in 1 unit steps. I always recheck the AF from both directions to ascertain there is minimal backlash.
if doing it for a zoom lens I check at the wide, mid and long ends.
I then repeat the above for a mid distance and then a near distance (approx 2m).
I generally find that-the results are pretty close and adopt a nominal best setting, critical focus is fairly easy to see as the text usually becomes very dense and sharp. When OOF, the text tends to loose contrast and small halos appear around the edges. I usually review my results on the rear screen at xll setting (which is approx 1:1 on a K20D)
When I check my setting at macro distances, i.e. the closest focus point, using a test chart, I usually find that there is more DOF behind the focus point than in front (but the focus point is sharp), if I set for equal balance, I find critical focus on most objects at further distances become more OOF as you approach distance/infinity objects.
I’ve heard it stated by ex-Pentax engineers, that Pentax lenses are designed to perform in this manner as well as many others.
Anyway, it works for me! I find that most of my lenses require quite minimal adjustments, but it does make a difference.
As a footnote, I would never buy a camera now that didn't have individual AF micro adjustments."
If you search the forums you'll find this has come up for discussion/debate many times
Comment by JohnX posted on Opinions on focus comparison please at 31/12/2011 - 12:06
Daydreamjay wrote:
Had my K5 for a few months now but haven't used it a great deal compared to my previous camera. I have noticed that I have struggled to focus on poorly lit subjects.
I've spent the last 4 hours with the camera on a tripod and photographing the same sheet of newspaper over and over again. My K5 tends to front focus on all my lenses apart from the SMC FA 1.4 50mm. I fine tuned the focus so that it was focusing correctly but when I apply a brighter light source to the subject rather than the tungsten it now back focuses.
I'm really peed off about it and feel like selling up and moving to Canon.
How can I get round a problem that changes under different light intensities?
As has been said, do the AF tests in daylight. Had my K5 for a few months now but haven't used it a great deal compared to my previous camera. I have noticed that I have struggled to focus on poorly lit subjects.
I've spent the last 4 hours with the camera on a tripod and photographing the same sheet of newspaper over and over again. My K5 tends to front focus on all my lenses apart from the SMC FA 1.4 50mm. I fine tuned the focus so that it was focusing correctly but when I apply a brighter light source to the subject rather than the tungsten it now back focuses.
I'm really peed off about it and feel like selling up and moving to Canon.
How can I get round a problem that changes under different light intensities?
As to taking shots in low light, you'll have to spend many times more than the cost of a K5 to getting anything like half acceptable results.
What makes you think Canon is any better?
Comment by JohnX posted on Completely Dejected (auto focus K5) at 27/12/2011 - 13:33
Just Google 'AF in low light', and pretty soon you'll see every camera marque mentioned adversely.
Comment by JohnX posted on Completely Dejected (auto focus K5) at 27/12/2011 - 13:28
Welcome to the forum Tammy.
Neither of the lenses you mention are macro.
I use a 100mm macro; it gives me a comfortable working distance from the subject.
Neither of the lenses you mention are macro.
I use a 100mm macro; it gives me a comfortable working distance from the subject.
Comment by JohnX posted on macro lens at 27/12/2011 - 11:37
The advise re monopod is good, especially trying out the kit in a shop first.
I've found, however, that the choice of support is also driven to a great extent by the type of photography.
For landscapes, etc, I'd go for a tripod.
For crowds, busy events, places you can't use a tripod, etc, I'd use a monopod or some form of natural support.
I'd also consider bean-bags, etc.
Also, weight is a consideration if you're going to be carrying it, so more expensive carbon fibre could be the way to go, but beware light weight metal devices; they could be next to useless!
I've found, however, that the choice of support is also driven to a great extent by the type of photography.
For landscapes, etc, I'd go for a tripod.
For crowds, busy events, places you can't use a tripod, etc, I'd use a monopod or some form of natural support.
I'd also consider bean-bags, etc.
Also, weight is a consideration if you're going to be carrying it, so more expensive carbon fibre could be the way to go, but beware light weight metal devices; they could be next to useless!
Comment by JohnX posted on 55-300 to heavy for my old arms at 24/12/2011 - 11:29
Address
Only For Apple Mac
21 Forge Way
Coventry CV6 4NL
United Kingdom
Phone
024 7668 6021
Contact person
Alex
E-mail
[email protected]
Open 10:00>17:00
Only For Apple Mac
21 Forge Way
Coventry CV6 4NL
United Kingdom
Phone
024 7668 6021
Contact person
Alex
[email protected]
Open 10:00>17:00
Comment by JohnX posted on only for mac, anyone heard of them? at 21/12/2011 - 18:45
Try 'Recuva', from here;
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
You'll find other unerase programs out on the 'net.
Good luck
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
You'll find other unerase programs out on the 'net.
Good luck
Comment by JohnX posted on How to get back photos deleted from Pentax K7 camera? at 21/12/2011 - 07:34
Details in the 'Classified' section.