I don't think my workflow will be very helpful to you either, but for what it's worth I use an Epson V600 flatbed scanner with the supplied Epson Scan software (I'd love a Coolscan 9000 but short of a Lottery win...).

The largest print size I go to is 10x10 so I scan at a target resolution of 3000x3000 pixels (this is from my Rollei and my Ikonta - I still don't have a P67). I scan at 8 bit resolution as I can't see any difference between that and 16 bit (other than larger files) and I save the output as the highest quality JPEGs. In terms of ICE etc I turn everything off - as I'm only doing 12 negatives at a time on an infrequent basis I'm quite happy to do the dust-spotting myself in Photoshop afterwards. I find I can do a much better job than any automated software and it speeds up the scanning time no end (three 6x6 negatives take approximately 6-7 minutes to scan plus an extra 2 minutes to load into the film holder / dust with a rocket blower / adjust the bounding boxes in the preview).

Overall I can do a roll of 120 film from start to finish (including the manual dust spotting and a touch of USM in Photoshop) in about an hour. I only shoot 1 or 2 rolls a month so that's fine with me.

My one suggestion to you would be to think about how big you're likely to print most/all of your pictures to and scan with that in mind rather than trying to extract the maximum from every negative. If you later decide that there's one you specifically want printed at poster size you'll still have the original neg/slide and you can always scan that again at a higher resolution.

You'll need a tripod and, ideally, a remote control.

Mount the camera on the tripod and set it to (B)ulb mode, set the desired aperture/ISO and focus manually on your subject (if it's dark then the AF won't have anything to lock onto so switch it off).

Use the remote control to trip the shutter and again to close it. Start with a 10 second exposure and if it's still too dark try another at, say, 20 seconds. Repeat this until you have the picture exposed as you want it.

Good luck

Not the Chinon lenses I've come across in the past, they've all been harmlessly pin-less.

Chinon actually made some quite nice lenses - the Alpa 2001 was a rebadged Chinon Memotron and most "Alpa" branded M42 lenses (the ones you see on eBay with price tags of £hundreds) were just re-badged Chinons. If they're good enough for Alpa...

The lens is quite a simple 5/3 arrangement (see here) so I'd imagine it's fairly straightforward to dismantle. The problem would be if the fungus is between the 4th and 5th elements as they're a cemented pair - not a job I'd undertake to be honest.

Oh well, you don't know if you don't ask.

Better than that: clicky

9.8 seconds and he even gives the Supra a head start

Want some business? How much to replace the headlining on a '91 2 door saloon then - can you beat Steve's £275?

My local Saab specialist is a wonderful chap but he's never done a saloon before and he keeps putting off giving me a quote; anyone would think he didn't want the job!

I wasn't in the convoy no, but Steve has proved a great source of used parts for my various 900's over the years and he's one of the few prepared to sort out headlinings for not too many £££ (take note 2-stroke-to-turbo!)

Both my current 900s are sagging but it's my daily driver that's the worst culprit - it's getting to the stage where I have to gather it up before I can get in the car and it sits on my head like a big baggy hat as I drive along. The things Saab owners are prepared to put up with eh?

I only wave at fellow C900 drivers (and 99s if I see one) - does that make me a bad Saabist..?

I've just driven back from town with the headlining resting on my head, guess a call to Steve Lewis is in my not-too-distant future...

It's a nice kit but a bit overpriced imo.

If it was split up into seperate lots he could certainly get £1500 for it all, but bundled together it'll probably only interest the dealers and they won't want to spend half of that or their margin's gone...

(Quite glad there's no 58/2 - it's the rarity factor that keeps mine valuable )