But assuming Pentax flashes are to be used on *all* Pentax cameras then you'd also need a standardised battery across the model range. At the moment the K-m / K20D / K-7 all use different batteries and how many people would buy a flash gun that was tied to one specific camera model?

I use my AF360 on both the K10D and the MX (along with a couple of non-Pentax film cameras in manual mode), as well as an old Braun flash gun from the 1980's. I find flashes tend to outlast several body purchases so I'd always want them to use a generic power supply - AA's suit me just fine in that regard!

I'll probably get there a little early (around 10.30 or so) and park up. My car's quite recognisable so it should serve as a good rallying point before we go in. For anyone who doesn't know it looks like this:

[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/hefty1969/006qees/IMGP5188.jpg[/IMG]

and I can guarantee there won't be another 2 door 900 in Ultramarine Blue in the car park!

If I had money to spare I'd like one! Plus a nice selection of lenses too of course...

Was it this one?

Make sure it's the right size! The standard ones usually hold drill bits in the range of: 0-0.8mm / 0.8-1.3mm / 1.3-3mm / 3-4.5mm

As you'll be using a 1.5mm drill bit you'll be wanting a size 3 (although a lot of places sell them as sets of four so you get one of each, or pairs of double-ended ones).

For most jobs I use power tools but when there's a degree of precision involved you can't beat a hand tool for "feel" IMO.

Not a drill at all, just a pin vice (which is sort of like a very small hand drill).

One thing I didn't mention (but should have) is to cover the rear element with masking tape or similar before you start drilling - don't want all those metal shavings falling on the glass and scratching it!

The "F--" that you see in the display is where the aperture value would normally show up. The older lenses (pre-A series) have no electronic communication with the body so the camera has no way of knowing what aperture you've selected, hence F--

I'm in the (fortunate) position of having some "spares" bodies laying around so for me I:

a) Attached M42 adapter to rear of lens (nice and tight).

b) Attached assembly to a spare camera mount.

c) Using the locking-pin hole on the mount as a positional guide drilled a shallow (1-2mm) hole in the back of the lens with a 1.5mm drill bit in a pin vice (I wouldn't use power tools for this one).

Remove the mount and the job's done - simple!

There is already a happy band of us who let others iron out wrinkles in new hardware while we wait for prices to settle. We have secret handshakes and everything - I'll bring your membership application next week. But Ssssshhhhh! Don't give the game away!

Goes without saying you won't be borrowing a K-7 off me, unless my numbers come up between now and then...