that is a nice shot!
sometimes we're just not fast enough to get the critters! happened to me the other week.

Gerri and I took our youngest, Micheal, to the zoo......
I saw this squirrel sneaking up behind Gerri, (who was snapping stills), "Watch out Honey...squirrels after ya' again!" I yelled.

"Mommy get him! That skirl would make a great Hamster!!!" Micheal shouted.

But of course the little bugger was gone, before my video cam booted up!
Gotta love that near instant on with the d-slrs, which in hindsight was camera I shoulda grabbed!

I'm sorry, but that doesn't really qualify as "Stupid" in my books.
A mistake, yes.
It's only stupid, if you did the same thing last week, and the week before.... and failed to learn anything from it.

also my experience with the 50mm macro lens is this: the af on a macro will go slower and hunt more, than a comparable fast prime). so it's best to use manual focus, if you're good at focussing in low light.

if not, do tests to find out how good your lens works in the dark.
let me know that works for you, as I'm seriously looking at grabbing the 100mm macro next week.

I use manual, but my better half prefers af

you're welcome Clarky.
good luck.

for the cerimony (light permitting...ie flash ok and/or available light good) and the reception: I'd put the 50-135 on the k10.

the 16-50 on the k20. (live view + wide angle + manual exposure+second curtian sync on the flash will make for some amazing trailing sync blurs on the dance shots). but have the 50 and 100 mm's in a hip pack along with mem cards and batteries for fast access!

for bad light, and or the park, and or formal portraits, I'd use the primes.

ps, i forgo the ladder and use some heayduty plywood boxes that do triple duty.... travel cases for gear, stepping stools for vertically challenged me, posing boxes/stools for subjects.

my thinking is "If it ain't got more than one use....I ain't lugging it."

those two lenses will cover 90% of what you need.
your now famous 100mm macro needs to tag along for portrait duty as well.

a macro shot of the ring and maybe a reflection in wine glass or a droplet of water on the wine glass....

Let me know how that goes.
I'm interested. That's why I started the other thread.

my results were with wide to normal lenses and exposure upto 1/2 sec.

https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7535&highlight=shake

ps people who know me say I'm nutz..
javascript:emoticon('')

And I've been getting sharp images in low light for enough years now, that when they started coming up slightly blurred, I had to investigate why.

sr definately works as advertised on the telephoto lenses!

I leave the sr off unless/until I know I need it.
reason:
I can see the difference. I have actually tested and found that in some instances, I'm losing sharpness on handheld shots in low light.
It seems that the camera tries to compensate, in areas where my hands are steady enough. (even started a thread on the subject).

you won't wreck anything if you leave it on, except for slightly softer images.

sr does work, when there is "Shake" for the "Shake Reduction" to counteract. It works by shaking the sensor, so it stands to reason, that if the camera is steady, and the sr decides to shake the sensor, you get a blury/softer image.

Love those bike shots!
Welcome!

http://www.popphoto.com/cameralenses/5328/lens-test-pentax-smcp-da-200mm-f28ed-if-sdm-af.html

Any body see this?
looks like a must have for lens addicts and outdoor photogs![/quote]