Hi Pa, I just thought I would add my views to the list for what they are worth!

SHAKE: Try using a monopod rather than a tripod, much more flexible and easier to re-position - you can get a basic cheap one from Amazon for a tenner. Flash is the obvious solution; it can be harsh and/or expensive to buy especially if you buy ringflash. Try making a flash diffuser out of a Pringles Tube, make a 90 degree turn in it by cutting it diagonally and fixing it back together with Duck Tape. The end with the plastic cap is the diffuser, the other end you cut off and push onto your flashgun head. As long as your flasgun is reasonably powerful this is a cheap way to get nice diffused flashlight. Finally, if you shoot in natural light make sure there's plenty of it and learn to hold your camera steady!!

LIGHTING: See above re flash. Not sure what you mean by 'Shine' caused by natural light; I guess you are talking about burned out areas caused by overexposure. You will learn how to expose the shots correctly with practice; one suggestion would be to set your camera to 'spot' metering and make sure you take the meter reading from the critical areas of the picture that need to be correctly exposed

IDEAL CONDITIONS: Bright wind-free day outdoors (Spring or Summer), or any time indoors if using artificial light

CAMERA SETTINGS: AV (Aperture Priority) with auto lens, or Manual with an old lens that does not support auto aperture. Use apertures of F8 or higher if light allows, unless you are purposefully aiming for wafer-thin Depth of Field which can be very effective on certain shots. Use manual focussing, if you can see the LCD screen the 'Live View' is often very useful for focussing on still subjects as you can zoom in and magnify the suject by pressing the 'Info' button (depends on your camera model)

AUTO vs. MANUAL LENS: I have no preference. For me manual is fine as I rarely use auto settings for macro shots. BTW, for focussing try moving the camera back and forth once near to perfect focus, rather than using the ocus ring. Also use the 'catch in focus' feature if you have it on your camera.

Finally, try using some cheap extension tubes with non macro lenses. You will be amazed what results can be achieved.

Regards
David

I would guess 'yes' Andrew as it is the same lens with identical optics so the distortion characteristics will be the same. As you know, I bought the Pentax 16-45mm last week and have been extremely impressed with it. If you can get one for a good price, do not hesitate. In any case I can't notice any significant distortion on 'real world' images and have not corrected any of mine.

Regards
David

Breathtaking set David, especially No3 does it for me.

Regards
David

Hi Dave

I don't use Photo elements but it sounds like the software is restricting the printer to certain settings only. I print from a variety of programs including Paint.net, Microsoft Digital Imaging and the Epson Easy Photo Print software that came with the printer. All of them work fine and do not restrict the DPI. In any case, you should not need more than 300 pixels per inch for even the highest quality printing, so I don't think you will have a problem. BTW, Pixels per inch and dots per inch are not the same thing.

Best thing to do is print out some of your pics A4 size; you should not see any discernible pixel structure unless you get really close or use a magnifying glass.

Regards
David

Regards
David

I have always had Epson and currently have the PX720WD which is excellent. I use non-genuine inks (Signal refillable, off ebay) which cost a fraction of the Epson ones and there is no discernible difference.

My printer cost £84, looks like they have gone up a bit to around £112 (Amazon) now, but for the money it's a superb piece of kit. Highly recommended.

Regards
David

Hi Dave, which menus are you referring to? I have this printer and it is capable of 5760 x 1440 resolution. When you are printing make sure you use proper photo paper and select one of the top two options 'Epson Ultra Glossy' or 'Epson Premium Glossy'.

This printer is superb and I doubt if you will be disappointed with the results. BTW I use non-genuine refillable inks that cost a fraction of the Epson genuine ones and I can't tell any difference. Signal Inks on ebay are excellent quality.

Regards
David

Lens received well packed and in great condition. Many thanks Janusz.

Regards
David

I can't comment of the 55mm Takumar as I've never used it, but I do own a few Taks and they are all superb. The 135mm SMC F3.5 is one of my favourite lenses - the quality it churns out consistently is fabulous and it takes beautiful portrait shots.

I also have an old Auto Chinon 50mm (only the F1.9 version), and I have to say I love this lens. It is pin-sharp at all apertures and produces lovely warm pictures with fabulous bokeh. It is probably my favourite lens and can be bought nowadays for under £20 on ebay.

Regards
David

I have an AOC E2343F which is an LED backlit model, very thin and with a very impressive contrast range. It's so good I bought another for my son. I work all day for a software company that has all types of monitors and my AOC is better than any of them. Processing pics is a pleasure with this monitor as every detail is visible. £115 PC World.

P.S. AOC may not be well known over here but are the world's second largest monitor / panel manufacturer, after Samsung. you can clearly buy a better monitor by spending a lot of money, but for £115 it is stupendous.

BTW, 2ms or 5ms response time will make absolutely no difference unless you are a hard-core gamer.

Regards
David

I wonder if it has been taken apart - not sure how so much dust could get in it otherwise, unless it's been used in a hot dusty environment like a desert or very dry country. Send it back if you can get a refund.

Regards
David