I think you'd run into problems with focusing (if the film was further back, it wouldn't be on the same plane as the viewfinder screen) and composition, as the viewfinder would only show part of the image.

Dan

Hmmm, get one for £2.99, or three for £13.49...?

Just as an aside (sort of), the apparent compatability of this battery with the K10D was noted on a website I saw, as in the battery looked the same. Does anyone actually know if this has been confirmed by someone?

Dan

Handheld at 1/2s? Looks amazingly sharp for that - well done (who needs a K10D with AS when you've got a sturdy pair of arms ).

I'm not always too keen on ND Grads, because you have to be very careful to avoid an obvious darkening effect on buildings/trees etc. I think you'd run into the same problem here, with the transition being noticed on the statue, or fountain, or buildings.

I suppose you might get away with it if it was just a one-stop one.

A notable image for me, which to me illustrates poor use of a grad, was one in the latest issue of the Pentax User magazine. A cambodian(?) temple was reflected in a lake, with the sun rising behind the temple. But the reflection was much brighter than the sky, and it looked completely fake to me.

Dan

The advantage of the Cokin type system is that you only need to buy one polariser for all your lenses, which can save you a heap of money. If you've got 2 or 3 (or 5 like me) lenses of different filter sizes, especially if they're larger sizes (67 or 72mm for instance), you'd be much better off.

You can obviously do the same sort of thing with one big screw-in polariser and filter thread adaptors for your lenses, but it would be much less convenient - same sort of difference that you get with standard and quick release heads on tripods.

I'd definitely go for a 'P' size rather than 'A', if not the Lee/ZPro size. I use the P, and it's okay even on my Sigma 10-20mm (just!).

Dan

Mine's up to about 15,000 too, only showing wear to the green rectangle on the mode selector, the hotshoe, and just a bit more 'polished' where my hand holds it.

I say 'about' 15,000 because inexplicably, the numbers jumped backwards by a few hundred a while back, not long after I went past the 10,000. I'd got to about 10,900, when the next images were numbered 10,200 odd. THAT was a pain in the backside as far as image numbering and saving on the computer was concerned - "Do you want to overwrite the other file?" - NO I DO NOT!!

Dan

P.S. George, do you wear silk gloves when using your D's? Actually, and seriously for a change, are you more studio based? Or do you just treat your cameras exceptionally well?

According to the FAQ's (I have an older version of the program, which doesn't seem to do this) you can extract the EXIF data to use to rename your files, but you need to enable it in the options somewhere as it adds to the processing time.

Dan

Brian,

I've used 'Bulk Rename Utility' and this gives loads of options, preview of new names and undo etc, does what it says on the tin!

It's free, and I've just seen on the 'Features' page that it does bulk change of date created too (although presumably not the EXIF data, I was thinking of Georges(?) problem with the incorrect date set on the camera when using Silkypix). Might be of use to Mike and his Organiser gripe though?

Dan

Hmmm, now where should I post about a right-angle finder...

Dan

Hi Hazza,

I think hyperfocal distance relates to the true focal length, so use the ones for the 28mm. I believe this is the reason that large format landscape work tends to be done at f/45 and using lens tilt - so that depth of field on the 100mm 'wide-angle' lenses is sufficient. I could be wrong though.

Best thing - try it and see. If it looks sharp enough, it is.

Dan

I second that - three cheers for Matt and John! Hip hip!!

We don't always see eye to eye, but we can get on and debate to our hearts content, and it's been a long time since 'voices' got raised too much.

Dan