ND Grad filters

I am thinking on getting a set of ND grads.
I am new to this subject, so I don't know exactly what to get.
I have seen a kit from Cokin, it a P system kit which features the adapter ring, holder and three gad filters, ND2, ND4 and ND8.
Will this make up for a nice kit to start with these kind of filters (perhaps I'll add in a polariser as well. what is best to buy? circular or linear?)

Yes, ND grads are very useful. However, bear the following points in mind:

* If you have a 12-24mm lens, then the Cokin P is too small You'll need a Lee system (I use a Lee Foundation kit plus Cokin Z-Pro ND grads)
* The Cokin filters suffer from a red or magenta cast, especially when you stack two or more together. The Z-Pros are much better than the A or P series, but Lee don't have any cast (but are lots of money )
* For polariser, you need circular if you want autofocus to work. I've used a Kood polariser in the P mount system and it's just fine.

As always, you get what you pay for, and I should've gone straight to the Lee/ZPro set and saved myself a hefty amount of money.

Also, get a decent case for the filters! They scratch too easily. Unfortunately for me, I have my Zpros in a Lee soft case, and one evening I put two filters in the one space and scratched them both

Hope that helps!
Matt

I was thinking about getting hold of some ND grads as well, and finally did a couple of days ago. I have a cokin 'A' gradual grey, which does affect the colour in the photo, but makes for some interesting effects. I've never used one, but apparently Lee filters' ND grads are truly neutral density and don't affect the colour, but are pretty expensive. i'd certainly go for the ones you mention and give them a go

If you want to use autofocus with your polariser it'll need to be circular, otherwise a linear one will do. My polariser is of the type that screws directly onto the filter ring and it gives amazing results (£10 from ebay) my feeling is that unless you want to use it with a very wide angle lens, (which wouldn't work with sky anyway because of uneven polarisation) paying for a whole square of polarising material (for a cokin holder etc) is a waste because only a circular section in the centre gets used

The advantage of the Cokin type system is that you only need to buy one polariser for all your lenses, which can save you a heap of money. If you've got 2 or 3 (or 5 like me) lenses of different filter sizes, especially if they're larger sizes (67 or 72mm for instance), you'd be much better off.

You can obviously do the same sort of thing with one big screw-in polariser and filter thread adaptors for your lenses, but it would be much less convenient - same sort of difference that you get with standard and quick release heads on tripods.

I'd definitely go for a 'P' size rather than 'A', if not the Lee/ZPro size. I use the P, and it's okay even on my Sigma 10-20mm (just!).

Dan

Don't forget those filters will (with an adaptor ring) fit your camcorder!!!
I just pulled out of retirement all the cokin filters I could find...(most went into retirement when I went digital).
They are great for adding in-camera effects while I work on saving money for more high end video software (iMovie will have to do until I get good, then upgrade, so I can get great).

Like Matt I managed to scratch a couple of my Cokin filters (actually on the holder sliding them in). Are there glass filters available? If so, I bet they cost a packet!

To avoid scratching your filters, why not try a cd case like the ones you can pick up in music stores? If you're using Cokin A or P filters, just a single height one will be sufficient or grab a double height (2 x CD's to one page) to store Lee or Cokin ZPro grads. I use this method, storing just one filter on each page... With a big collection it can get a bit bulky but it's very easy to keep your filters organised and the material used in the 'better' cd cases is anti-static which helps keep dust at bay...

Will

I had a play with my new nd filter




I always wondered how to capture the silky effect of moving water. I wish i'd had a tripod, but I'd say it isn't bad for 1/2 second handheld. What do people think?

In Box
This gallery is empty.

something isn't working properly..

try the link on its own -

http://www.pbase.com/mr__ist/image/71292888/large

hope that works - but how do I get the image to appear in the post itself?

Says we have to log in as you to see it.
Are you sure the gallery is publicly viewable?
Matt

it says it is in the settings...

Now I can see it

You could do with an ND Graduated filter too - that would balance the sky exposure with the foreground. More playing....

Matt

Handheld at 1/2s? Looks amazingly sharp for that - well done (who needs a K10D with AS when you've got a sturdy pair of arms ).

I'm not always too keen on ND Grads, because you have to be very careful to avoid an obvious darkening effect on buildings/trees etc. I think you'd run into the same problem here, with the transition being noticed on the statue, or fountain, or buildings.

I suppose you might get away with it if it was just a one-stop one.

A notable image for me, which to me illustrates poor use of a grad, was one in the latest issue of the Pentax User magazine. A cambodian(?) temple was reflected in a lake, with the sun rising behind the temple. But the reflection was much brighter than the sky, and it looked completely fake to me.

Dan

Hi Mr. Ist,

there you go..

[ img ]http://ct.pbase.com/g6/93/732293/2/71292888.Z2llf5cy.jpg[ /img ]

http://ct.pbase.com/g6/93/732293/2/71292888.Z2llf5cy.jpg is the image's url, and that just goes in the [ img ] tags as normal. (Right click image on pbase and click properties for url)

Hope that helps,

Cheers

Liam