A question about that.
Sigma says the minimum focus is 150cm but that's the same as with the Pentax so to both can focus just as close or does the macro make that closer?

Wow the first two shots are stunning, the colours and feeling in the shots is so nice.
The 3th one looks a bit plain compared to the others to be honest.
Really well done.

My dad has a router with an usb port, he now has his printer on it but it can also be used to connect an external harddisk so yes it comes down to support.

Yes the standard might be a problem, since it needs to deliver the powersuplly but I'm now typing this on a keyboard that is connect through a mini-usb and i've an adapter to make it a normal usb so there are more ways to Rome. Apple is using a lot of weird connections so why not Pentax?

The 500mA could also come from the net if everything comes together correctly with the connector i won't see a problem there or is it in the standard that it need to come from the master device itself or that the connector type A needs to supply that power?
We Dutch like to find the ways between rules

Do you know why, it doesn't seem different then other TC with PZ contacts.
Have you ever compared it with other TCs Mike, would be interested to know your findings.

What do you photograph the most Ali?
If your heart is with portrait the DA*50-135 will most like be closer to your needs. If you don't need the f/2.8 so if you shoot oudoors simply speaking get the DA*60-250, you will love the extra range and the miss of 10mm on the short end is just a step or two more back.

I've used the DA*50-135 a lot indoors and also in the studio, it's a great lens for in the studio, just the perect range. The DA*60-250 won't work so well since it doesn't go down to 50mm and 50mm is sometimes just not wide enough for me so no DA*60-250 for the reason alone for me.

Really think about you usages and your needs and decide on that what you really need and not on what you want.

Sorry Martin for the missunderstanding it doesn't work with an external HD. Was simply comparing the Iphone with the HTC.

Lovely screen right, with the resolution.

The tweaked software can be found here if you don't mind english OS.
link

Everything is made and tweaked by forum mebers so everything is free and on your own risk!
The ROM is the os part, you probable need to "cook" (link) your phone to accept unofficial OS

Here is a list of tweaked roms link

HF distance means hmmm... how to put it simple, i hardly know to explain it myself

The dof is so wide with a set apeture right?
So with a normall photo you have.
out of focus - in focus - out of fous

What the HF distance does is brining the end of the infocus part to the end of your image so the horizon, the far distance.
You will get.
out of ocus - in focus

When using the HF you wiil have the biggest in focus field with only one out of fcous part and that part is infront of the in focus part.


Does that makes sence?

With 12mm for almost every shot I will use f/8 and may be f/11 but not higher, the lens doesn't like that and it isn't needed.
really try out a shot in the middle of the street set it to f/8 and manual focus and set the focus to 33cm (as close as you can) and see how much in the frame is sharp.

here read this, it might be a better explanation link

Might be because Apple is so protective of their little baby, also software made for it is under their full control.

Got a HTC touch myself with tweaked os on it and it is running very well.
Have played with the Iphone but liked the smaller size and the better screen of the HTC and that I'm able to use the software I want.

No problem Jeanette, sorry I didn't do it sooner.
I think you use an wider apeture so more light comes on the sensor but you forgot to adjust the shutterspeed.

You need to premit aperture ring as a setting yes.
You can use M-mode and by pressing the green button it will set the correct shutterspeed for the apeture you have set the lens on.

AV-mode also works. Press the green button and it will meter the difference between wide open and when closing the lens for the metering and adjust the shutterspeed all the times. Don't forget to take a new metering when you change the apeture ring

You can also use capture in focus, that means you play the focus motor part and you move the focusing till the camera comfirm it's in focus and it will take a photo.
Don't know precisly how it goes but other forum members can help you with that.

The camera can already read and write those files so only USB interface support is needed and some programs line to enable to copy the files to your USB stick and nothing more.
Computing power don't look like a problem here.

If you connect the camera to the PC and let it be recognized as camera instead of storage-device, the camera reads the data I believe and gives it to the pc. I can be wrong with this though since I'm speculating.

ps. to be honest I find my idea more usefull then the ability to make HDR with the camera
That would have cost a lot more time I believe.