There is no difference indeed only that I'm on the other end but what you said isn't precisely what I said.
There is a difference in getting used to something and liking something and that's what I talked about and there is no certainty that I'll like mac when I use it more but the only way to find that out is to try it.
I wished there are clear comparisons that show that Mac run so much better than Windows that would give me confidence I won't pay in preformance but I can't find any.

Off course they are necessary, if you know a computer without a processor than please tell me

The processors will most likely come too late but the nVidia cards not, they will come in a matter of months.
The new ones use the GF106 and 108 chips from nVidia, they are more efficient than the GF100 so they run cooler and use less power, both important with laptops.
Also as far as I know CUDA is implemented better with them than the generation chips used with the current notebook cards if so than you will see a difference in preformance with Photoshop and other programs that use them.

I can wait for these cards so why won't I do that?

John I was talking about the digital info contact, it's one of the normall contacts and not the PZ ones.




That contact is use to give the camera information about the lens, including if it's an Auto Focus lens and if it use a screw-drive or a SDM.


So for an SDM lens you need this contact and the PZ, if you don't have the PZ on the TC the camera will not use the screw-drive because the camera knows the lens has SDM so will use the PZ and not the screw-drive.

Thank you Peter to enlighten that bit, I was under the impression you meant it changed the f-ratio and therefore also the DOF.

Are there any ways to control the aperture with mirror lenses?

We'll I've played with the Mac.
I went to the city centre a monday to get a camera filter (you see I'm not so indecisive with everything, it's only computers ) but they need to ordered it and it was in today and to my surprise found an I'am Store a long the way
Played with the Mac for a long time and compared the several screens.

I really don't know what to think off it.
The build quality and the screen looked all really good but the Dell studio was on the same level to my feeling.
The OS... I'm a windows user and therefore not used to the Mac at all and didn't like it in the short time I've played with it but that might change when using it more.
If I would spend €1800 now I would play it safe and get a laptop.

I've till February to decide and new AMD and Intel processors are on the horizon and nVidia have new graphics cards and AMD new ones will also come this year I believe... so yes I'll wait because I've that option.

I'm with I-berg here that the idea might sound good but that it will not work so well in practice.

I think the best way is to use Adobe Bridge (which standard packed with photoshop I believe) and use the film strip option to view the photos.
You'll have a small preview strip of the photos at the bottom and the rest of the screen is used to show the photo which is selected big.

The lens gives information to the camera, through the contacts so if the camera knows the lens has a SDM than it will use that and there is no way to force it to use the screw-drive.
Because if you cover that contact the camera will think it's not an auto-focus lens at all so it will not use any means of AF

The only way is that the TC gives the information that it's AF but only the Pentax TC 1.7x AF does that as far as I know.

I use a CPL for macro most of the time, indeed you lose some light but it cuts the haze/glare from plants making them look more brilliant.

I've just picked up a B+W Käsemann filter with the very good MRC coating, I've two of them now
Hoya certainly also are very good so if you get one get one of those just for quality.

I've the wireless cactus v4 and I can fit the AF540FGZ on it and it stands on the table on that quite nicely but not super stable though it's a bit narrow but it works.

It's better to have a noise image than a blurry image so try to find the optimum for you, it really depends on what you shoot, in what weather (light), with what lens and with which camera.
The K-X is far cleaner at higher ISO than the K20D or the K7 for example.

In your example of the bird I would even push the K10D to ISO1600 in order to get a good photo, the noise reduction software are getting quite good you know and I don't pixel peep as much any more.

Indeed it just sounded like the one doing the DA*300 also did the DA*200
Maybe the focus might have been slightly off with the one that they reviewed, that might explain why it's soft at f/4?