Algernon

Joined: 22nd May 2010

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Algernon
Some Fuji cameras could double as webcams. This site has some free software. For anyone using BT he has a program to monitor DL speeds which is very good.

Comment by Algernon posted on K7 as a web cam at 12/08/2010 - 19:11

Algernon
Anvh wrote:
Algernon wrote:
I've only ever heard of the 18% grey card Stefan. 12% would be too dark to be any use on digital, in fact 18% is too dark for digital
Well no because the card is darker your camera overexpose relative to the 18% grey card. And since 12/13% seems to be what the camera meters you get the right exposure actually

The question is are those cards presented as 18% grey for photography exposure truly 18% grey are do they simply use the name since everyone thinks you need 18% grey?
It's all to do with noise Stefan. This video partly explains it. Worth looking at the other videos as well.

The Kodak Grey Card is a known standard even though it may not be exactly neutral because it was made for B&W. I sometimes use a grey Pure Evoke 3 remote control as a grey reference as well as a Kodak card.

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 12/08/2010 - 17:47

Algernon
I've only ever heard of the 18% grey card Stefan. 12% would be too dark to be any use on digital, in fact 18% is too dark for digital

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 12/08/2010 - 16:32

Algernon
I've just had a look at this again and done a quick test with the camera. A straight shot of a white or grey card would be 101R 101G 101G in RGB space as per the results on this site. This is of course for half a stop below 18% grey which is 13% grey (12.73%). That page also gives values for +1 stop above 13% which is half a stop above 18% as RGB 137

All we really need in practical terms is the values of RGB that represent under and over exposure in half stops. This is handy if we include a grey card in a manual flash shot and want to know if it's shown correctly as 18% grey on the computer screen. Note we aren't metering off the card it's merely a known reference. Some of these were given others I've calculated.

The values are:

- 1 stop = RGB 85
- 1/2 stop = RGB 101
+- 0 stop = RGB 118
+ 1/2 stop = RGB 137
+ 1 stop = RGB 162
+ 1.5 stops = RGB 188

I can now properly set up my flash

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 12/08/2010 - 12:26

Algernon
I remember a review of one car (I'm sure it was the Marina) in the 1980's in CAR magazine. They basically summed it up as:

Fine car for the 80's
Some in their 90's will like it as well

--------------------

Same mag had a review of a Volvo:

FOR: Built like a Tank!

AGAINST: Drives like a Tank!

SUMMARY: It is a Tank!

Comment by Algernon posted on Snobbery. at 12/08/2010 - 09:30

Algernon
I'll have to look at this again tomorrow, I'm on my way out just now.

The RGB=101 above seems to be for 13% grey the same site gives RGB=118 for 18% grey which is around what I was getting and I think is also the same as the page Stefan referred to.

I'll check this tomorrow.

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 11/08/2010 - 20:32

Algernon
That seems correct for film Stefan and isn't much different from this site which refers to digital. Sounds like they did use 18% initially for digital but only had a headroom of 2.47 stops before they hit 100% white. So they reduced it by 0.5 stop to give almost 3 stops headroom (still very poor).

They give the RGB value of 18% grey in Adobe RGB (1998 ), gamma=2.2 space, as RGB=101. I'm surprised it's that dark although that explains why I've never been able to make much sense of a grey card included in a shot. I'll have to try it outside tomorrow and see what the shot looks like with the grey card at RGB 101.

Film was never based directly on 18% grey in the way digital is. It was based on obtaining a density of 0.1 above film base plus fog with an exposure X stops below the grey card reading i.e. same method Ansel Adams used in his Zone System. Depending on the development time the 18% card could be moved up and down the film in terms of it's actual density. In fact using the Zone System you ignore what the manufacturer claims the film speed to be. I aways found it to be half of what the manufacturer specified. I was using a Pentax Digital Spotmeter.

Trust me using the Sunny 16 rule is a lot simpler

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 11/08/2010 - 20:06

Algernon
Digital cameras are different than light meters and have their own specifications. There's no such thing as 100ISO and 6400ISO sensitivity on a digital camera. The higher ISO's are obtained purely by amplification.

Unless the spec. has changed it used not apply to Jpegs or RAW only Tiffs which is rarely seen nowdays and makes proper user calibration of the camera impossible. The ISO spec. for digital cameras did use a base of 18% grey and sRGB.

Could the 18% grey have been a mistake? What is 18% grey as an RGB value?
Is it 119R 119G 119B? I seem to remember reading that somewhere. It's not as you would think 127R 127G 127B

Comment by Algernon posted on Sunny 16. at 11/08/2010 - 19:15

Algernon
I've no problem with the colours John, blue and yellow go well together. It's purely the name on the sign. Could even upset some people who have lost their children through brainwashing etc.

If the sign had a different name on it it would be a perfectly acceptable composition. The word "Photography" would look OK.

Comment by Algernon posted on Deansgate at Night at 11/08/2010 - 18:41

Algernon
JBmagician wrote:

I was using my Quantaray (sp?)70-300 zoom lens. I decided at the last minute to take this shot and only had my camera with the zoom lens on it. So I tried to get the least amount of zoom.

Thanks,
John
Ah! I think that's a Sigma rebadge..... certainly sharp
at the 70mm end and f/5

Comment by Algernon posted on My New K7 at 11/08/2010 - 18:30

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